One more glimpse of the new Southern world we have before striking
straight across the Indian Ocean to the old Oriental one. At sunset
about five days after leaving Melbourne the land is in sight again,
and soon after the distant glimmer of the lighthouse which stands on
a little rocky island at the mouth of King George’s Sound. In a few
hours we enter the Sound, a large harbour or bay, land-locked except
to the south and south-east, embraced by a confusion of long irregular
promontories and islands between which the eye cannot distinguish, and
bare of tree or house to disturb their undulating outline. So white
they look in the moonlight, that they might be bare chalk hills, and
even by daylight it is difficult to make out that it is only pure white
sand which covers them. A few lights on shore ahead of us are the only
sign of life. Even the pilot seems to be asleep, for we have to burn
blue-lights and rockets to summon him as we steam on at half-speed.
At last he comes on board, looking very sleepy; we enter the inner
harbour, the anchor drops, and the twelve hours’ work of coaling is at
once begun, and goes on continuously throughout the night.
Daylight reveals that in all the great natural harbour there is only
one sea-going vessel, the Adelaide packet, which has come to meet us.
There are still three or four hours left, and we land in one of the
boats on the pretty sandy shore, and make our way through low scrub
towards the settlement. The flowers are lovely, especially a large
brilliant red bottle-brush, and a handsome white flower growing on a
bush with slimy sticky leaves, which is the fatal poison-plant, or one
of them, which has been so injurious to Western Australia, by poisoning
the sheep and making the land valueless for grazing. As for Albany,
the settlement, it is a pleasant, cosy little village of wooden houses,
with three or four superior habitations for the Government officials
and the Peninsular and Oriental agent; and considering that it is on
a splendid harbour, and situated in the extreme corner of a great
continent, it is about as quiet, dull, lifeless, and unprogressive a
place as can well be conceived. For what is there to be done there?
The climate is said to be particularly charming, but the soil is so
poor and sandy that even the few hundred inhabitants can scarcely grow
food for their own wants. There is an establishment of convicts here,
and they are to be seen doing such work as can be found for them; and
in one respect it is a good place for them, for there is little chance
of their escaping. From the top of a hill we could see to a great
distance inland, but there is scarcely a sign of habitation or even
a large tree to be seen. The nearest station is fifty miles off, and
Perth, the only considerable town, two hundred and fifty. The road to
it is plainly visible for miles and miles, stretching straight across
the plain. The native black-fellows frequent the place, and are to be
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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