The heat does not admit of much going about in the middle of the day;
but towards evening you can drive beyond town and suburbs, and see
the palms on each side bending over the road, and the rich swampy
soil teeming with rank vegetation, and feast your senses on the
often-described wonders of a tropical climate. Beautiful as it is, it
is not to be compared for beauty (one is told) with the interior. And
there is no time or opportunity for seeing that, for punctual to its
day the great black hull of the steamer from Calcutta and Madras, which
is to pick up all the passengers for Suez, rounds the point and enters
the bay, and by daybreak next morning she is off again.
A huge monster she is of two thousand six hundred tons or thereabouts,
with a charming long flush deck from bows to stern of immense length.
She is cram-full; for it is the end of March, and all Indians who can
get away—officers, civilians, invalids, and young children—are on
their way home before the hot season sets in. Some cabins have been
reserved for passengers waiting at Galle, and we from Australia are a
not very welcome addition to the already large number, and are probably
set down as at best successful diggers, and as most likely holders of
tickets-of-leave. But with or without tickets-of-leave we soon shake
down, and get on pretty well with each other, for there is no room for
quarrelling. There are some five hundred human beings on board, of whom
more than half are passengers, and of these above fifty are children.
They are pale, sickly, quiet little beings, these children, or one does
not know how the ship would hold them, for they are under little or no
control. Often half a dozen or more have been confided to the care of
one invalid lady, who has about enough to do to take care of herself.
As for the ayahs, of whom there are plenty, they have not a shadow
of authority over their charges, and submit as a matter of course to
thumps and abuse in answer to their feeble threats and entreaties.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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