It is worth while to stroll over the ship about midnight, when everyone
has settled down for the night. The season is not yet advanced and
hot enough to oblige everyone to sleep on deck, but on the after-deck
under the awning are perhaps twenty men-passengers asleep—some on
mattresses brought up from their cabins, others on the benches or on
cane lounging-chairs. Forward, near the funnel and galley and on the
forecastle, the bright moonlight shines upon bodies lying as thick and
as motionless as on a battle-field after a battle—some wrapped head and
all in their garments of white linen or coarse cloth, some in their
natural bare black to the waist, some huddled together, head to feet,
in groups, and some alone, and all without the slightest regard to
whether they are in the gangway or not. In the saloon, on the tables,
or on the narrow benches, with one leg on the table to keep them from
rolling off, lie white-shirted and white-trousered stewards; and on the
floor at their mistresses’ cabin-doors are prostrate ayahs, so exactly
in the way that in the half-light one almost has to feel for them to
avoid treading on them in passing. On the lockers in the stern are a
few children and an ayah or two; but the head-quarters of the children
are down below on the lower-deck, where they are laid out by dozens on
the table, on cushions, shawls, and anything that comes to hand, while
over them the punkah, its strings connected with the engines, fans the
air steadily the whole night through. And all seem to sleep peacefully
and even comfortably each after his fashion, for the north-east monsoon
is just dying away, there is not a wave to stir the ship, and every
port and scuttle to within two or three feet of the-water-line is open
to admit the air.
We carry on the monsoon till Cape Guardafui is in sight; then comes a
strong south-east breeze heavy with moisture blowing up the gulf, and
on the morning but one after, the rising sun lights up brilliantly the
red and yellow mountains which stretch across the little peninsula of
Aden, rising up behind it in high peaks and ridges abrupt and sharp
and serrated like the Dolomite mountains of the Tyrol. And in an hour
or two the _Tarus_ drops her anchor within a quarter of a mile of the
shore, among steamers and ships of war and transports on their way to
Annesley Bay to feed the Abyssinian Expedition, now near its goal at
Magdala.
Like King George’s Sound, Aden is an isolated corner of a continent,
cut off by deserts from land-communication with the outer world of
civilization, and important only as a refuge or coaling-station for
shipping. Wild tribes of Bedouins are the only inhabitants of the
deserts which bound the peninsula, and for some years after our
occupation of it they made repeated attacks upon us; and strong
fortifications, garrisoned chiefly by Bombay sepoy regiments, now guard
the small space where it is possible to penetrate the strong natural
defence of the mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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