The lowness of the houses strikes a new comer from England as a feature
which makes the general appearance of the city different from anything
at home. Even in the heart of it, where space is so valuable that
one might have expected it would be more economised, the houses have
generally only one story above the ground floor, and in the suburbs
often not even that. This is made all the more conspicuous by the width
of the streets. These are not paved but are well macadamized, and are
now in good order in all weathers; but on each side of them you have
to cross by little bridges, if you are on foot, or if you are driving,
to bump down into and through broad, deep, paved gutters, or rather
water-courses full of running water, which exhibit nature not yet quite
submissive to civilization. After heavy rain, torrents of water rush
down them to such an extent that boats are sometimes required in some
of the lower streets. There is a tradition that before Flinders Street
was macadamized the mud was so deep there that a baby jolted out of a
car was drowned in a rut before it could be picked up. In the principal
thoroughfares the traffic on the foot-pavement is considerable enough,
and indicates a large and busy population. But the roadway looks
rather empty. In an afternoon you may see a good many buggies and
a few English-looking carriages driving about; but there is never
anything approaching to a continuous string of vehicles of any kind in
motion. There are plenty of street-cars, or jingles as they are called,
which are like Irish cars with the seat turned breadthways instead of
lengthways, and with a covering to keep off sun and rain. Here and
there are to be seen stands of drays waiting to be hired, as if the
population were in a chronic state of change of domicile.
The wind and blinding sun make one wish that the streets were a
little less straight, both to add to their picturesqueness, and so as
to afford a little more shelter. Whether the keen wind in winter or
the hot wind of summer be blowing, the lee-side of a wall is equally
desirable. In summer after a day or two of parching hot wind from
the north, the south wind will suddenly come into conflict with it,
producing what is called a ‘Southerly Buster’—a whirlwind full of dust,
filling the air and darkening the sky, and resulting always in the
victory of the south wind, and in a fall of temperature of twenty or
thirty degrees in less than half an hour. But if curved streets are in
some respects desirable, it must not be at the expense of a peculiar
and most attractive feature in those of Melbourne, namely, that many of
them have at each end a vista of open sky or distant mountain ranges,
which in the clear dry air are always blue and distinct, and give a
sense of space and freedom not common in the midst of large cities.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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