to the porter at the yard gate, who allowed the dray to pass, and I and
my saddles were free.
III.
BALLARAT.
Two hours’ railway travelling will take you from Melbourne to Geelong,
over rich, flat, grassy plains, with scarcely a tree, nothing but
ugly posts and rails to break their outline. In summer these plains
must be parched and dreary beyond description; but it is May now, and
the autumn rains have made them green as an emerald and pleasant for
the eye to rest on. Geelong is scarcely worth stopping at, unless to
speculate upon why it is not Melbourne, and Melbourne it, as might
have been the case—so superior in many ways is its situation—if its
harbour bar had been cut through a few years sooner. During two
more hours’ railway you rise gradually, and emerge from a forest
of ill-grown, scrubby gums, upon a large, undulating, irregular
amphitheatre, surrounded by small hills. Seventeen years ago the
locality was scarcely ever visited except by blacks, for it was covered
with bush and unproductive. Now it is Ballarat, the fourth city in
Australia. A strange, irregular, uncouth, human ant-hill it is, with
its miscellaneous cells above, and its galleries beneath the ground.
You may walk two miles and more, from east to west or from north to
south, without getting fairly out of the town. The houses are of all
sorts, shapes, and sizes, generally not contiguous, and the majority
consisting of a ground-floor only. Most conspicuous are the hotels,
and the banks, glorying in stone fronts and plate glass, as befits
their dignity; for are they not suckers at the fountainhead, drawing
the golden stream which, joining other rills, waters the whole world
of commerce? Next door to one of these is perhaps a common log-hut, or
a two-roomed cottage of corrugated iron, or a large shop stocked till
its miscellaneous contents overflow through doors and windows, and are
hung on hooks and pegs outside. Next to this, perhaps, and still in
the heart of the town, may be an acre or two of ground covered with
disgorged gravel and mud, in the midst of which, and at one end of a
great mound twenty or thirty feet high, puffs and sobs a steam engine,
as it works the shaft and puddles the produce of the gold mine beneath.
It is easy to gain admittance to a gold mine, at least if the manager
is satisfied that you are not a spy, and are not interested in the
‘claim’ which lies nearest this one, and with which it probably is,
or will be as a matter of course, engaged in litigation as soon as
the workings of either approach the boundary between them. Boundaries
above ground are productive enough of disputes, but they are nothing to
boundaries under ground. The richest harvest reaped by the Victorian
bar is that of mining; cases and mining Appeals. But there is not much
to see in a mine. Down below I suppose it is not so very different
from a coal mine (for the gold is far too minute in quantity to be
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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