Letters from England, 1846-1849Bancroft, Elizabeth Davis
History
Letters from England, 1846-1849
Bancroft, Elizabeth Davis
England -- Description and travel
The Adelphi, my first specimen of an English hotel, is perfectly
comfortable, and though an immense establishment, is quiet as a private
house. There is none of the bustle of the Astor, and if I ring my
bedroom bell it is answered by a woman who attends to me assiduously.
The landlord pays us a visit every day to know if we have all we wish.
LONDON, Sunday, November 1.
Here I am in the mighty heart, but before I say one word about it I will
go on from Wednesday evening with my journal. On Thursday, though still
very feeble, I dined at Green Bank, the country-seat of Mr. William
Rathbone. I was unwilling to leave Liverpool without sharing with your
father some of the hospitalities offered to us and made a great effort to
go. The place is very beautiful and the house full of comfortable
elegance.
[Picture: Aston Hall (Bracebridge Hall)]
The next morning we started for Birmingham, ninety-seven miles from
Liverpool, on our way to London, as I am unable to travel the whole way
in a day. On this railway I felt for the first time the superiority of
England to our own country. The cars are divided into first, second, and
third classes. We took a first-class car, which has all the comforts of
a private carriage.
Just as we entered Birmingham I observed the finest seat, surrounded by a
park wall and with a very picturesque old church, that I had seen on the
way. On enquiring of young Mr. Van Wart, who came to see us in
Birmingham (the nephew of Washington Irving), whose place it was, he said
it was now called Aston Hall and was owned by Mr. Watt, but it was
formerly owned by the Bracebridges, and was the veritable “Bracebridge
Hall,” and that his uncle had passed his Christmas there.
On arriving here we found our rooms all ready for us at Long’s Hotel,
kept by Mr. Markwell, a wine merchant. The house is in New Bond Street,
in the very centre of movement at the West End, and Mr. Markwell full of
personal assiduity, which we never see with us. He comes to the carriage
himself, gives me his arm to go upstairs, is so much obliged to us for
honoring his house, ushers you in to dinner, at least on the first day,
and seats you, etc., etc.
Do not imagine us in fresh, new-looking rooms as we should be in New York
or Philadelphia. No, in London even new things look old, but almost
everything _is_ old. Our parlor has three windows down to the floor, but
it is very dark. The paint is maple color, and everything is dingy in
appearance. The window in my bedroom looks like a horn lantern, so thick
is the smoke, and yet everything is scrupulously clean. On our arrival,
Boyd, the Secretary of Legation, soon came, and stayed to dine with us at
six. Our dinner was an excellent soup, the boiled cod garnished with
fried smelts, the roast beef and a _fricandeau_ with sweet breads, then a
pheasant, and afterwards, dessert.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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