Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8 — John Shaqi
Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Religion
Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8
Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Palestine -- Description and travel
I think I informed you that Beyroot is a walled town, and has a
strong garrison. It is held under Ibrahim Pasha, and for his father
or step-father Mahommed Ali of Egypt. Ibrahim spends most of his
time north of this at Aleppo, Tripoli, Scanderoon, and Tarsoos. He
is erecting a palace not far from Aleppo, and may possibly purpose
making that his home. Beyroot is the most important port on the
coast, but still its trade is small. The walls are of considerable
height, appear strong, and have several strong towers connected with
them. The number of troops at this place I have not been able to
ascertain with certainty; there must be several thousands, possibly
from 3000 to 5000.
I have been equally unable to ascertain the population of the town
and suburbs; nearly one-third of the population, I should think,
live without the walls, in what is called the Gardens. The houses
without the walls are much more pleasant, at least in summer, than
those within the town. They stand apart; have gardens and trees
about them, are higher and much more cool. The town stands in a
low spot, is much crowded with houses, has narrow filthy streets,
and during the hot weather the heat is considerable, which causes
sickness. The gates of the town are guarded, and at an early hour in
the night all but one are closed. This one is kept open to a late
hour.
At the quay, or public landing-place, there is an immense number
of old, broken pillars. The wall fronting the bay is for thirty,
possibly fifty yards, composed almost wholly of them. Most of them
are more or less broken. Many of them have been connected, no
doubt, with buildings of consequence, as their high finish seems
to indicate; a number of them are fine Egyptian marble. They are of
various sizes, but most of them of the largest kind. Broken pieces
of pillars and other work in marble are to be seen in many places
about the town, both without and within the walls, all indicating
that, at some period, this was the seat of wealth and taste, of
luxury and splendour.
* * * * *
_Brumanah, Mount Lebanon, July 20th, 1836._
After getting out of quarantine, and spending ten or twelve days
in Beyroot to see the place, I came up to this village, where the
mission families are spending the summer months. It lies about three
hours' ride from Beyroot, on the top of one of the ridges which runs
down from the main ridge of the Lebanon towards the sea. It may be
about one-third of the way to the top, and one-third of the height
of Jebal Sun-neen, the highest point of Mount Lebanon. We have from
Bru-ma-nah a fair view of the mountains, as they rise above us, and
run far to the north-east and south-west: a long sea coast spreads
out before us--the town of Beyroot--the shipping that lies off the
town on the face of the smooth waters, all rise into view, and give
a rich and beautiful variety to the prospect.
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