receive the sacrament from the hands of a secular priest; for none
of them are admitted to orders. After chapel, they retire to their
cells, where they pass their time in reading, meditation, plaiting
mats, making little crosses of Spanish broom, which people carry
about them as a preservative from erysipelas, and manufacturing
instruments of penance, such as scourges and a sort of wire bracelets
bristled inside with points, called _Cilicios_, which are worn near
the skin by the _ultra-pious_ among the Catholics. Food, consisting
of pulse and herbs, is distributed once a day to the hermits, leaving
them to use it when they please. These devotees are usually peasants,
who, seized with religious terrors, are driven to this strange method
of escaping eternal misery, in the next world. But the hardships of
their new profession are generally less severe than those to which
they were subject by their lot in life; and they find ample amends
for their loss of liberty in the certainty of food and clothing
without labour, no less than in the secret pride of superior
sanctity, and the consequent respect of the people.
Thus far these hermitages excite more disgust than compassion. But
when, distracted by superstition, men of a higher order and more
delicate feelings, fly to these solitudes as to a hiding-place from
mental terrors; the consequences are often truly melancholy. Among
the hermits of Cordoba, I found a gentleman who, three years before,
had given up his commission in the army, where he was a colonel of
artillery, and, what is perhaps more painful to a Spaniard, his cross
of one of the ancient orders of knighthood. He joined our party, and
showed more pleasure in conversation than is consistent with that
high fever of enthusiasm, without which his present state of life
must have been worse than death itself. We stood upon the brow of the
rock, having at our feet the extensive plains of Lower Andalusia,
watered by the Guadalquivir, the ancient city of Cordoba with its
magnificent cathedral in front, and the mountains of Jaén, sweeping
majestically to the left. The view was to me, then a very young man,
truly grand and imposing; and I could not help congratulating the
hermit on the enjoyment of a scene which so powerfully affected the
mind, and wrapt it up in contemplation. “Alas! (he answered with
an air of dejection) I have seen it every day these three years!”
As hermits are not bound to their profession by irrevocable vows,
perhaps this unfortunate being has, after a long and painful
struggle, returned to the habitations of men, to hide his face in
an obscure corner, bearing the reproach of apostacy and backsliding
from the bigoted, and the sneer of ridicule from the thoughtless;
his prospects blasted for ever in this world, and darkened by fear
and remorse, in the next. Woe to the incautious who publicly engage
their services to religion, under the impression that they shall be
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