insulation amidst the events and impressions of my life, I compare to
an interview with an inhabitant of the invisible world. But I shall
never forget the thrilling horror I felt, when the abyss of misery
into which that wretched being was plunged, opened suddenly upon my
mind. I was young, and had, till that moment, mistaken the nature
of enthusiasm. Fed as I saw it in a Carthusian convent, I firmly
believed it could not be extinguished but with life. This ocular
evidence against my former belief was so painful, that I hastened
my departure, leaving the devoted victim to his solitude, there to
wait the odious sound of the bell which was to disturb his sleep, if
the subsequent horror of having committed himself with a stranger,
allowed him that night to close his eyes.
Though the number of Hermits is not considerable in Spain, we are not
without some establishments on the plan of the _Lauras_ described
by Gibbon.[34] The principal of these solitudes is Monserrat in
Catalonia, an account of which you will find in most books of
travels. My own observation on this point does not, however, extend
beyond the hermitages of Cordoba, which, I believe, rank next to the
above-mentioned.
[34] Chapter xxxvii.
The branch of Sierra Morena, which to the north of Cordoba separates
Andalusia from La Mancha, rises abruptly within six miles of
that city. On the first ascent of the hills the country becomes
exceedingly beautiful. The small rivulets which freshen the valleys,
aided by the powerful influence of a southern atmosphere, transform
these spots, during April and May, into the most splendid gardens.
Roses and lilies, of the largest cultivated kinds, have sown
themselves in the greatest profusion upon every space left vacant by
the mountain-herbs and shrubs, which form wild and romantic hedges to
these native flower-plots. But as you approach the mountain-tops to
the right and left, the rock begins to appear, and the scanty soil,
scorched and pulverized by the sun, becomes unfit for vegetation.
Here stands a barren hill of difficult approach on all sides, and
precipitous towards the plain, its rounded head inclosed within a
rude stone parapet, breast high, a small church rising in the centre,
and about twenty brick tenements irregularly scattered about it. The
dimensions of the huts allow just sufficient room for a few boards
raised about a foot from the ground, which, covered with a mat, serve
for a bed: a trivet to sit upon, a diminutive deal table supporting
a crucifix, a human skull, and one or two books of devotion. The
door is so low that it cannot be passed without stooping; and the
whole habitation is ingeniously contrived to exclude every comfort.
As visiting and talking together is forbidden to the hermits, and the
cells are at some distance from one another, a small bell is hung
over the door of each, to call for assistance in case of sickness or
danger. The hermits meet at chapel every morning to hear mass and
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