A foreigner must be surprised at the strange mixture of caution
and liberty which appears in the manners of Spain. Most rooms have
glass doors; but when this is not the case, it would be highly
improper for any lady to sit with a gentleman, unless the doors were
open. Yet, when a lady is slightly indisposed in bed, she does not
scruple to see every one of her male visitors. A lady seldom takes a
gentleman’s arm, and never shakes him by the hand; but on the return
of an old acquaintance after a considerable absence, or when they
wish joy for some agreeable event, the common salute is an embrace.
An unmarried woman must not be seen alone out of doors, nor must she
sit _tête-à-tête_ with a gentleman, even when the doors of the room
are open; but, as soon as she is married, she may go by herself where
she pleases, and sit alone with any man for many hours every day. You
have in England strange notions of Spanish jealousy. I can, however,
assure you, that if Spanish husbands were, at any time, what novels
and old plays represent them, no race in Europe has undergone a more
thorough change.
Dinners are generally at one, and in a few houses, between two and
three. Invitations to dine are extremely rare. On some extraordinary
occasions, as that of a young man performing his first mass--a
daughter taking the veil--and, in the more wealthy houses, on the
saint-days of the heads of the family, they make what is called a
_convite_, or feast. Any person accustomed to your private dinners,
would be thrown into a fever by one of these parties. The height of
luxury, on these occasions, is what we call _Comida de Fonda_--a
dinner from the coffee-house. All the dishes are dressed at an
inn, and brought ready to be served at table. The Spanish houses,
even those of the best sort, are so ill provided with every thing
required at table, that wine, plates, glasses, knives and forks,
are brought from the inn together with the dinner. The noise and
confusion of these _feasts_ is inconceivable. Every one tries to
repay the hospitable treat with mirth and noise; and though Spaniards
are, commonly, water-drinkers, the bottle is used very freely on
these occasions; but they do not continue at table after eating the
dessert. Upon the death of any one in a family, the nearest relatives
send a dinner of this kind, on the day of the funeral, that they may
save the chief mourners the trouble of preparing an entertainment for
such of their kindred as have attended the body to church. Decorum,
however, forbids any mirth on these occasions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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