Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
Immediately after writing the above it began to blow a gale (favourable,
indeed, but more furious than the captain had ever known in these
seas),—about lat. 34° S. and long. 25°. For three days we ran under
close-reefed (four reefs) topsails, before a sea. The gale in the Bay of
Biscay was a little shaking up in a puddle (a dirty one) compared to that
glorious South Atlantic in all its majestic fury. The intense blue
waves, crowned with fantastic crests of bright emeralds and with the
spray blowing about like wild dishevelled hair, came after us to swallow
us up at a mouthful, but took us up on their backs, and hurried us along
as if our ship were a cork. Then the gale slackened, and we had a dead
calm, during which the waves banged us about frightfully, and our masts
were in much jeopardy. Then a foul wind, S.E., increased into a gale,
lasting five days, during which orders were given in dumb show, as no
one’s voice could be heard; through it we fought and laboured and dipped
under water, and I only had my dry corner by the wheel, where the kind
pleasant little third officer lashed me tight. It was far more
formidable than the first gale, but less beautiful; and we made so much
lee-way that we lost ten days, and only arrived here yesterday. I
recommend a fortnight’s heavy gale in the South Atlantic as a cure for a
_blasé_ state of mind. It cannot be described; the sound, the sense of
being hurled along without the smallest regard to ‘this side uppermost’;
the beauty of the whole scene, and the occasional crack and bear-away of
sails and spars; the officer trying to ‘sing out’, quite in vain, and the
boatswain’s whistle scarcely audible. I remained near the wheel every
day for as long as I could bear it, and was enchanted.
Then the mortal perils of eating, drinking, moving, sitting, lying;
standing can’t be done, even by the sailors, without holding on. _The_
night of the gale, my cot twice touched the beams of the ship above me.
I asked the captain if I had dreamt it, but he said it was quite
possible; he had never seen a ship so completely on her beam ends come up
all right, masts and yards all sound.
There is a middy about half M—’s size, a very tiny ten-year-older, who
has been my delight; he is so completely ‘the officer and the gentleman’.
My maternal entrails turned like old Alvarez, when that baby lay out on
the very end of the cross-jack yard to reef, in the gale; it was quite
voluntary, and the other newcomers all declined. I always called him
‘Mr. —, sir’, and asked his leave gravely, or, on occasions, his
protection and assistance; and his little dignity was lovely. He is
polite to the ladies, and slightly distant to the passenger-boys, bigger
than himself, whom he orders off dangerous places; ‘Children, come out of
that; you’ll be overboard.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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