Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
The wrath of the cockney housemaid became
majestic: ‘There, ma’am; you see how saucy they have grown—a nasty black
heathen Mohamedan a blessing of a white Christian!’
These men are the Auvergnats of Africa. I was assured that bankers
entrust them with large sums in gold, which they carry some hundred and
twenty miles, by unknown tracks, for a small gratuity. The pretty,
graceful Malays are no honester than ourselves, but are excellent
workmen.
To-morrow, my linen will go to a ravine in the giant mountain at my back,
and there be scoured in a clear spring by brown women, bleached on the
mountain top, and carried back all those long miles on their heads, as it
went up.
My landlady is Dutch; the waiter is an Africander, half Dutch, half
Malay, very handsome, and exactly like a French gentleman, and as civil.
Enter ‘Africander’ lad with a nosegay; only one flower that I
know—heliotrope. The vegetation is lovely; the freshness of spring and
the richness of summer. The leaves on the trees are in all the beauty of
spring. Mrs. R— brought me a plate of oranges, ‘just gathered’, as soon
as I entered the house—and, oh! how good they were! better even than the
Maltese. They are going out, and _dear_ now—two a penny, very large and
delicious. I am wild to get out and see the glorious scenery and the
hideous people. To-day the wind has been a cold south-wester, and I have
not been out. My windows look N. and E. so I get all the sun and warmth.
The beauty of Table Bay is astounding. Fancy the Undercliff in the Isle
of Wight magnified a hundred-fold, with clouds floating halfway up the
mountain. The Hottentot mountains in the distance have a fantastic
jagged outline, which hardly looks real. The town is like those in the
south of Europe; flat roofs, and all unfinished; roads are simply
non-existent. At the doors sat brown women with black hair that shone
like metal, very handsome; they are Malays, and their men wear conical
hats a-top of turbans, and are the chief artisans. At the end of the
pier sat a Mozambique woman in white drapery and the most majestic
attitude, like a Roman matron; her features large and strong and harsh,
but fine; and her skin blacker than night.
I have got a couple of Cape pigeons (the storm-bird of the South
Atlantic) for J—’s hat. They followed us several thousand miles, and
were hooked for their pains. The albatrosses did not come within hail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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