Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
I have had a very kind letter from Lady Walker, and shall go and stay
with them at Simon’s Bay as soon as I feel up to the twenty-two miles
along the beaches and bad roads in the mail-cart with three horses. The
teams of mules (I beg pardon, spans) would delight you—eight, ten,
twelve, even sixteen sleek, handsome beasts; and oh, such oxen! noble
beasts with humps; and hump is very good to eat too.
_Oct._ 21_st._—The mail goes out to-morrow, so I must finish this letter.
I feel better to-day than I have yet felt, in spite of the south-easter.
Yours, &c.
LETTER III
28_th_ _Oct._—Since I wrote, we have had more really cold weather, but
yesterday the summer seems to have begun. The air is as light and clear
as if _there were none_, and the sun hot; but I walk in it, and do not
find it oppressive. All the household groans and perspires, but I am
very comfortable.
Yesterday I sat in the full broil for an hour or more, in the hot dust of
the Malay burial-ground. They buried the head butcher of the Mussulmans,
and a most strange poetical scene it was. The burial-ground is on the
side of the Lion Mountain—on the Lion’s rump—and overlooks the whole bay,
part of the town, and the most superb mountain panorama beyond. I never
saw a view within miles of it for beauty and grandeur. Far down, a fussy
English steamer came puffing and popping into the deep blue bay, and the
‘Hansom’s’ cabs went tearing down to the landing place; and round me sat
a crowd of grave brown men chanting ‘Allah il Allah’ to the most
monotonous but musical air, and with the most perfect voices. The chant
seemed to swell, and then fade, like the wind in the trees.
I went in after the procession, which consisted of a bier covered with
three common Paisley shawls of gay colours; no one looked at me; and when
they got near the grave, I kept at a distance, and sat down when they
did. But a man came up and said, ‘You are welcome.’ So I went close,
and saw the whole ceremony. They took the corpse, wrapped in a sheet,
out of the bier, and lifted it into the grave, where two men received it;
then a sheet was held over the grave till they had placed the dead man;
and then flowers and earth were thrown in by all present, the grave
filled in, watered out of a brass kettle, and decked with flowers. Then
a fat old man, in printed calico shirt sleeves, and a plaid waistcoat and
corduroy trousers, pulled off his shoes, squatted on the grave, and
recited endless ‘Koran’, many reciting after him. Then they chanted
‘Allah-il-Allah’ for twenty minutes, I think: then prayers, with ‘Ameens’
and ‘Allah il-Allahs’ again. Then all jumped up and walked off. There
were eighty or a hundred men, no women, and five or six ‘Hadjis’, draped
in beautiful Eastern dresses, and looking very supercilious. The whole
party made less noise in moving and talking than two Englishmen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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