Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
I have no doubt that Dr. Shea was right, and that one must leave the
coast to get a fine climate. Here it seems to me nearly perfect—too
windy for my pleasure, but then the sun would be overpowering without a
fresh breeze. Every one agrees in saying that the winter in Capetown is
delicious—like a fine English summer. In November the south-easters
begin, and they are ‘fiendish’; this year they began in September. The
mornings here are always fresh, not to say cold; the afternoons, from one
to three, broiling; then delightful till sunset, which is deadly cold for
three-quarters of an hour; the night is lovely. The wind rises and falls
with the sun. That is the general course of things. Now and then it
rains, and this year there is a little south-easter, which is quite
unusual, and not odious, as it is near the sea; and there is seldom a hot
wind from the north. I am promised that on or about Christmas-day; then
doors and windows are shut, and you gasp. Hitherto we have had nothing
nearly so hot as Paris in summer, or as the summer of 1859 in England;
and they say it is no hotter, except when the hot wind blows, which is
very rare. Up here, snow sometimes lies, in winter, on the mountain
tops; but ice is unknown, and Table Mountain is never covered with snow.
The flies are pestilent—incredibly noisy, intrusive, and disgusting—and
oh, such swarms! Fleas and bugs not half so bad as in France, as far as
my experience goes, and I have poked about in queer places.
I get up at half-past five, and walk in the early morning, before the sun
and wind begin to be oppressive; it is then dry, calm, and beautiful;
then I sleep like a Dutchman in the middle of the day. At present it
tires me, but I shall get used to it soon. The Dutch doctor here advised
me to do so, to avoid the wind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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