Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
must be very wet and miserable, as the sea is constantly over it, not in
spray, but in tons of green water.
3_d_ _Aug._—We had two days of dead calm, then one or two of a very
light, favourable breeze, and yesterday we ran 175 miles with the wind
right aft. We saw several ships, which signalled us, but we would not
answer, as we had our spars down for repairs and looked like a wreck, and
fancied it would be a pity to frighten you all with a report to that
effect.
Last night we got all right, and spread out immense studding-sails. We
are now bowling along, wind right aft, dipping our studding-sail booms
into the water at every roll. The weather is still surprisingly cold,
though very fine, and I have to come below quite early, out of the
evening air. The sun sets before seven o’clock. I still cough a good
deal, and the bad food and drink are trying. But the life is very
enjoyable; and as I have the run of the charts, and ask all sorts of
questions, I get plenty of amusement. S— is an excellent traveller; no
grumbling, and no gossiping, which, on board a ship like ours, is a great
merit, for there is _ad nauseam_ of both.
Mr. — is writing a charade, in which I have agreed to take a part, to
prevent squabbling. He wanted to start a daily paper, but the captain
wisely forbade it, as it must have led to personalities and quarrels, and
suggested a play instead. My little white Maltese goat is very well, and
gives plenty of milk, which is a great resource, as the tea and coffee
are abominable. Avery brings it me at six, in a tin pannikin, and again
in the evening. The chief officer is well-bred and agreeable, and,
indeed, all the young gentlemen are wonderfully good specimens of their
class. The captain is a burly foremast man in manner, with a heart of
wax and every feeling of a gentleman. He was in California, ‘_hide
droghing_’ with Dana, and he says every line of _Two Years before the
Mast_ is true. He went through it all himself. He says that I am a
great help to him, as a pattern of discipline and punctuality. People
are much inclined to miss meals, and then want things at odd hours, and
make the work quite impossible to the cook and servants. Of course, I
get all I want in double-quick time, as I try to save my man trouble; and
the carpenter leaves my scuttle open when no one else gets it, quite
willing to get up in his time of sleep to close it, if it comes on to
blow. A maid is really a superfluity on board ship, as the men rather
like being ‘_aux petits soins_’. The boatswain came the other day to say
that he had a nice carpet and a good pillow; did I want anything of the
sort? He would be proud that I should use anything of his. You would
delight in Avery, my cuddy man, who is as quick as ‘greased lightning’,
and full of fun. His misery is my want of appetite, and his efforts to
cram me are very droll. The days seem to slip away, one can’t tell how.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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