Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
My intention is
to use all my sketching moments for scenes connected with Our Lord's
revealed life. I resolutely deny
[Illustration: IN THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. NOONDAY. LOOKING TOWARDS
VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT
PART of the Garden in foreground under old olive-trees and cypresses.
Stations of the Cross along path inside boundary wall. Walls of
Jerusalem and top of Mosque of Omar in background. Time, early
afternoon.]
myself the indulgence of elaborately sketching the people and animals
that seem to call out to the artist at every turn, though I have
outlined some in my note-book. Anywhere else our fellow-travellers at
the hotel would be too tempting in my lighter moments, so comical they
look in their sun-proof costumes. Why such preparations against the
April sun? But one is too "detached" here to be much distracted by their
unspeakable outlines. And, talking of distractions, I really do not find
the drawbacks of Jerusalem, which so many travellers give prominence to
in accounts of their experiences, so very bad. Indeed our life here is
without a single drawback, to my thinking.
_Saturday, 11th April 189-._
The heat is greatly increasing. At 1.30 we drove to Bethlehem with our
friend, Frère Benoît. The hill country we passed through was very stony
and rocky, and only cultivated here and there. Again olives and stones,
stones and olives everywhere. The inhabitants are a splendid race, the
men athletic, the women graceful, though their faces are sadly
disfigured by tattooing. We were on the look-out for the little city of
David long before it appeared, and very beautiful it looked as we beheld
it from a high hill, crowning a slightly lower one amid a billowing sea
of other hill-tops. It has a majestic appearance on its rocky throne,
and its large, massive conventual buildings add greatly to its
stateliness. We passed that pathetic monument, Rachel's Tomb, at the
cross roads, our road leading to the left, and the other diving down to
the right towards Hebron. We ascended Bethlehem's hill and were soon in
its steep, narrow, slippery stone lanes, utterly unfitted for a
carriage. We drove at once to the Franciscan Convent and then to the
Church built over the site of the Nativity, and had the happiness of
kneeling at the sacred spot where the manger stood, which is shown in
the rocky vaults below, and marked with a white star inlaid in the
floor. The cave was rich and lovely with votive lamps and gold and
silver gifts. Little by little the dislike I had to the too precise
localisation of the events we love most in the Bible is disappearing.
Speaking for myself, I find that, on the spot, the mind demands it. But
I know that many people regret it. I only wish that, in their separate
and individual ways, all
[Illustration: BETHANY
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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