Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
new and delightful sensation to me. We started this morning at sunrise,
my sketching things handily strapped to my saddle by W.'s directions, in
a flat straw _aumonière_. Isaac had swathed his tarboush in a
magnificent "cufia," and our retinue wore the baggy garb of Syria. W.
rode a steel-grey Arab, I a silver-grey, Isaac a roan-grey, and the man,
whom we call the "flying column," because he is to accompany us with the
lunch bags, while the heavy column with baggage, tents, etc., goes on
ahead by short-cuts, rode a chestnut. We passed through Bethlehem and
down to the Field of the Shepherds, where I completed, as well as I
could in the heat and glare, my sketch begun the other day. A group of
some twenty Russian pilgrims arrived as we did, and we saw them in the
grotto of the sheepfold, each holding a lighted taper and responding to
the chant of their old priest, who had a head which would do admirably
for a picture of Abraham. These poor men were in fur coats and high
clumsy boots, and one told us he had come from Tobolsk, and had been two
years on that tramp. He assured us he could manage his return journey in
no time, only ten months or so. Their devotion was profound, as it
always is, and was utterly un-self-conscious. I think we English are too
apt to suppose that because devotion is demonstrative it is not deep.
Great pedestrians as we are, how many Englishmen would walk for two
years to visit this sheepfold? That two years' test borne by the Russian
peasant must have gone very deep.
I remember reading with much approval, when a child, with a child's
narrow-mindedness, Miss Martineau's shocked description of the
demonstrative piety of a noble Russian lady on Calvary, who repeatedly
laid her head in the hole where the Cross had been, weeping and praying
and behaving altogether in a most un-English manner. The memory of that
passage came back to me to-day as I saw these rough peasants, so
supremely unconscious of our presence, throwing themselves heart and
soul into their adoration of God, and I thought of Mary Magdalene and
_her_ prostrations and tears.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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