Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
I shall post this in Jerusalem, for to-morrow we set out on a journey
during which no post-offices will be found for many days.
_Friday, 17th April._
My....--I continue my letter in diary form from notes taken on the march.
This morning we left rather late, as the weather was so cool, and after
making some purchases in Jerusalem we set out with our faces due north
on our long ride into Galilee. It was again an eight-hours-in-the-saddle
day, but over such rolling stones that our horses seemed to me to be
going at about three miles an hour. It was a relief at the almost
impassable places to dismount and lead one's horse. As W. said, these
paths of Palestine seem to have been rather worn by the people's feet
than made by their hands. These bare hills of Benjamin were weary and
sad, but what a thrilling view was our last one of Jerusalem from a high
point overlooking the ocean of mountains that bore afar off the island
of the Holy City and its domes. Good-bye, Jerusalem! good-bye, Olivet!
We sat many minutes on our horses looking back at that centre of the
world, and then resuming our way a turn in the rocky track shut out the
Holy City from thenceforth. We overtook a large wedding party, the men
armed with long flintlocks, and the women wearing brilliant dresses. We
all moved forward together as far as Bethel. How powerfully this
assemblage of men and women and children journeying northward from
Jerusalem represented that large company in which were Mary and Joseph,
who came along this way, a day's journey, to the evening halting-place
at Beeroth, and found there that the little Jesus was missing. As I was
thinking over this and watching the people, we passed a little goatherd
who had evidently been out on the hills many days "on duty." His mother,
who was amongst the wedding party, catching sight of her son--about
twelve years old--snatched a moment to leave the line of march and ran
up to him and kissed him and wept over him, then returning hurried
forward to rejoin her companions. That meeting of mother and son, the
bending form of the woman in her red and blue drapery, which concealed
at that moment the rich dress worn underneath, the little goatherd held
close in her arms, formed a group that startled me, with my mind engaged
as it was. On reaching the village the men all let off their guns and
were met by the people who had remained at home. We made our halt at
Bethel. What a place of hard, gritty, arid desolation! Beth-el, "the
House of God." From this great height Lot looked down on the plain of
Sodom, then the acme of fertile beauty, where now lowers the Dead Sea!
There are now only the dry bones of Bethel left. The goats eat up every
green sprout that appears above ground. I could not sketch such blinding
nothingness at our halt there. Towards evening the land grew more
beautiful as we journeyed on, but so much struggling over boulders and
jagged rock ledges made me very glad indeed to perceive the daily signal
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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