Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Off at sunrise, the larks singing over the face of the land. We had a
glorious ride through the Plain of Jezreel or Esdraelon, often coming
upon the brook Kishon and its little trickling tributaries in their
multitudinous windings, and fording the same. What a vast space is here,
how Biblical in its majesty, and how troubled too with recollections of
battle from remotest ages of Israelitish history down to Napoleon's
time. Deflecting to the right we climbed up to Naim for our halt,
memorable for the raising of the widow's son. There was an immense view
from this little bunch of mud houses towards Tabor and Galilee, with a
foreground of purple iris. Then descending again into the plain we rode
to the foot of Mount Tabor, where, in an olive-wood, and on ploughed
land, our camp was pitched. How refreshing it is never to be told we are
trespassing in this country.
[Illustration: THE PLAIN OF ESDRAELON, FROM FOOT OF TABOR, WITH THE
VILLAGE OF NAIM IN DISTANCE
Plain full of green wheat. Mountain to left is "Little Hermon," on which
the village of Naim stands. Towards sunset.]
On arriving I chose to remain and make a sunset sketch of distant Naim
on its hill, whilst W. rode up to the top of Tabor.
_Wednesday, 22nd April._
Off again at sunrise over the saddle of Mount Tabor. Very rough riding
through dells of oak, where the honeysuckle hung in masses and scented
the air. Tabor itself is scarcely beautiful in outline, and like the
magnified mounds that the old masters intended for mountains. In their
pictures of the Transfiguration their Tabors are very like the original.
This was our most glorious day's journey, for it took us to the shores
of the Lake of Galilee. Hermon in distant Lebanon was visible ahead of
us throughout. We rode up to near the top of the "Mount of Beatitudes,"
and then on foot reached the very top, and had our first view of the
Sacred Sea from that immense height. Here Christ preached the Sermon on
the Mount, and down there, intensely blue, lay that dear lake whose
shores were so often trodden by His feet. Hermon rose above the majestic
landscape, and a warm, palpitating light vibrated over all. In a scrap
of shade from a rock we made our halt, and I had an hour and a half for
a sketch. Then we rode down to Tiberias, descending into a furnace,
though when once on the shore the breeze was sweet off the water.
Tiberias is a dreadful little town, and we were glad to thread its
alleys as quickly as possible. Our camp was on a pebbly strand about
half a mile south of this, the only, town on these shores that once held
such brilliant cities. I made an evening sketch, and before retiring for
the night we strolled a long time by those sacred waters in the light of
the full moon. The waves were strong, and sounded loud in that great
stillness. At such times as this the sense of Our Lord's Presence is
almost more than one's mortal heart can hold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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