Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Before emerging on the Plain we passed a white mosque-like building
placed between two cypresses by the roadside, which is supposed to stand
on the site of the place where Peter raised Dorcas to life. Be that as
it may, the white dome and the black-green cypresses are charming. The
soil of the country, now being ploughed in all directions between the
green wheat-fields, is of a rich golden colour, like that I noticed with
such pleasure around Sienna, and makes a pleasing harmony with the vivid
green. The dear olive-tree, beloved of my childhood, is here in its very
home. I hailed its pinky-grey foliage and its hoary old gnarled trunk.
And now for those wildflowers that all travellers who are so well
advised as to come here in spring have told us of. Well may they speak
of them with rapture! As we proceeded they increased in variety, and so
abundant were they that they made tracts and wide regions of colour over
the land. Come here in spring, O traveller! and not in the arid, dusty,
burnt-up autumn. On entering the Plain of Sharon we saw to our left the
town of Lydda, with St. George's Church gleaming in the sunshine. Never
have I seen, even in Ireland, fresher effects of cloud shadow and
sunlight over rolling spaces of waving green corn, and even the sky was
typically West of Ireland. Yet lo! in the foreground strings of camels,
mules, and wild Bedouins and caracoling Bashi-Bazouks! The ploughing was
done by tiny oxen, two abreast, and sometimes a tall camel stalked as
leader. On arriving at Ramleh we walked to the great tower, some
distance out of the town, from the top of which I had my long-looked-for
view of the whole of Philistia--northward to Carmel, westward to the
sea, eastward to the mountains of Judah. As the sun sank the tints
deepened on that lovely plain, and nothing on earth could be more
beautiful than that immense view. I made a hasty water-colour sketch up
there, but what can one do in a few minutes with such a scene? A sad
spectacle awaited us as we reached the German inn. As we walked I had
become absorbed in the contemplation of the limpid sky, where the last
lark was carolling to the sinking sun, and of the mountains whose rosy
flush was fading into the cool greys that already veiled the plain, when
my eyes sinking lower, I beheld in the cold grey of the narrow street,
ranged along a stone wall, a row of lepers waiting for alms. Life has no
sadder detail than the leper. As I approached them with a coin the
nearest of these poor creatures put out a fingerless palm on which I
placed the money, and having only hollow sockets in the place of eyes it
handed it to its neighbour, who, being also eyeless, passed it on to one
in whose fleshless face there lingered the remnant of an eye. This one's
hand lifted the coin to its fragment of eye to see its value, and
deposited it in the recesses of its fluttering rags that only half
veiled the decaying body. A low wail passed along the line, and bony
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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