Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
You will wonder at the comparison, but the distant view of Venice
reminded me strongly of New York, as you approach from Amboy. The
gondola that brought us stopped in the Grand Canal near the Rialto, or
rather the bridge of the Rialto, for the name properly belongs to the
island; and in crossing this bridge during the day, I found some of the
little shops still occupied by money-changers, and I saw more than one
hard Jewish countenance that might sit for the picture of Shylock. This
part of the town is unpleasant, although the canals are lined with what
were once stately palaces, which now look as if about to sink again into
the water. While on my way to a hotel, I came abruptly upon a view that
seemed like enchantment: the Piazza of St. Mark, a large quadrangle,
three sides inclosed by a magnificent range like the Palais Royal; on
the fourth, the church of St. Mark, and adjoining it the Palace of the
Doges, scarcely less magnificent, and in an equally Oriental style. In
front is the Campanile, taller than that of Florence, but not handsome.
As you turn out of the quadrangle in full front of the palace, you see
the two granite columns, one of them surmounted with the winged lion;
and you stand on the mole, with the most superb view of sea and city,
shipping, churches and palaces, before and around you. I never expect
again to see anything like it. I have walked over this ground again;
and one is never wearied with the sight.... The street musicians here
are very good. A party stops at the door of the café: a man with a
violin, his wife and son each with a guitar, and they perform several
airs exceedingly well, the woman sometimes accompanying with her voice.
She enters the café with the little wooden cup in her hand, and is well
satisfied with a kreutzer (about half a cent) from those who choose to
give, and a sweet “grazia” in the softest Italian expresses her thanks.
There is one café here frequented almost exclusively by Turks, who sit
smoking their large pipes with such an air of ridiculous gravity. Their
turbans or the red caps they often wear, their flowing robes and their
nether garments, which are something between pantaloons and petticoats,
are very queer....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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