Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
I spare you a detailed account of my movements to-day and yesterday, of
the fine churches, enough to furnish cathedrals to half a dozen cities,
of the arsenal, its ship-yard, the antique lions, the public garden, the
Armenian convent, the gondolas and my rides therein. I have enjoyed it
greatly, and have laid up a stock for future enjoyment, for I shall read
hereafter of Venice with greater interest. One who travels as rapidly as
I do, if he would enjoy the full benefit of his journey, should know
almost everything before he leaves home. The true way for those who have
time and means sufficient is to study the history of each place on the
spot with all its monuments and relics around them. So more might be
learned in one month than in a year at home. If I had what I am not
likely to have,--a family of children to bring up, money sufficient for
the purpose, and no other duties to prevent, I think I would educate
them in this peripatetic way. But now to bed.
Thursday evening, May 16.... We are to start at nine o’clock. The rain
is over, but it is still cloudy. I have been for some days in Austrian
dominions, but I wish to be in Austria itself. It cleared up a little
just at sunset, and gave, me from the deck of the vessel, a most
beautiful view of the town and harbor, with hundreds of gondolas gliding
swiftly through the water in every direction....
TRIEST, Saturday evening, May 18, 1839.
As misfortunes never come single, I found this morning that our places
were not secured in the mail-coach for Monday. The fellow who was to
arrange the business found, after getting our passports in order, that
there was only one place left, and supposing that we were certainly to
go together, did not secure that. It was immediately arranged between us
that I was to have the place, but on arriving at the office I had the
mortification to find it already taken. For an hour or so we made
various plans, negotiated with a vetturino, but were stopped by the
information we received, that they would be five days on the road to
Gratz, from where to Vienna it would require at least two days more by
the same kind of conveyance, or twenty-seven hours in the mail-coach if
we could get a place in it. We found that the quickest way left for us
was to take places for Tuesday by the mail, and go on Monday by a
private conveyance to Adelsberg, as we had intended, where we shall have
a day longer than we desire; and these places we were fortunate enough
to secure. So I cannot expect to reach Vienna before Friday morning of
next week! I had hoped to reach that place by the twentieth.
It rained hard all the morning, so that botanizing was out of the
question. So I put my collection of yesterday in press; visited
Biasoletto,[99] and after dinner met Tommasini,[100] who has given me a
very pretty collection of plants of the country....
VIENNA, 24th May, Friday evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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