Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
I am now at the Hotel de l’Empereur Joseph II., Rue Tournon, près du
Palais du Luxembourg. Here I have been established for about half an
hour, and my first business shall be to fill this sheet for you. I
suppose I must begin at the beginning and tell you how I came here.
Voilà. I left London at nine o’clock in the morning of the 14th inst.
(Thursday), stopping on my way to the steamboat which was to take me to
Boulogne, to leave a parcel of letters at Mr. Putnam’s office, to be
forwarded to dear friends at home. It was a nasty, rainy morning; and
our boat was, as indeed I expected, not very comfortable. The cabin was
well enough, but much too small for the accommodation of some fifty or
sixty persons, and there was no covering to the deck, nor any
deck-cabin, except two dirty little places for the poorer passengers,
who were not allowed the use of ours; so we had our choice the whole day
between the soaking in the rain upon the deck and the close atmosphere
of the crowded cabin. Of course I was vibrating between the two dilemmas
the whole day, but took as much pains as I could to keep dry. The only
thing I saw worthy of notice as we went down the Thames was Greenwich
Hospital, of which I will perhaps send a print. I should add also chalk
cliffs, for I never before saw rocks and hills of chalk. In the
afternoon, as we had fairly got into the Channel, a thick fog came on.
The captain lost his way and seemed in fear that he should run the boat
upon the Sands, so he dropped anchor about five in the afternoon. We
were to have arrived at Boulogne at nine that evening. But as I saw
there was no great chance of our moving for some time, I set about
making amends for my loss of sleep the previous night. I took possession
of two thirds of a hard sofa, and, wrapped in my cloak, was soon in a
comfortable doze. I awoke late in the evening; and such a sight as there
was before me! It seems that there were no accommodations for sleeping
on board, or next to none, and the passengers, men, women, and children,
were indiscriminately but thickly strewn over the sofas, chairs, and
even over the whole floor, with portmanteaus, great-coats, and whatever
they could find for pillows, attempting to secure such rest as they
could,--some sixty persons or more crowded into a space not larger than
the cabin of one of our ferry-boats....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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