Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
But I was too drowsy to mind it much, and soon fell asleep again, but
awoke in the morning with swollen eyes and complaining bones. The boat
was moving again, and it was raining as hard as ever. The distant coast
of France soon came in view, and at half past ten we were landed at
Boulogne. We were escorted to the custom-house; what baggage we had
brought in our hands was closely examined by the officers, an
ill-looking, vagabond set; our passports were taken from us and
provisional ones given, which permitted us to go on to Paris, and for
which we each had to pay two francs; we were then allowed to go to a
hotel and get our breakfast, a privilege which most of us were not slow
to avail ourselves of. I made a hearty meal of cold roast beef, café au
lait, excellent bread, and delicious butter. The two last I have found
ever since I have been in France. I gave my keys to the commissionaire
of the hotel to get my luggage through the custom-house, and, my place
being taken in the diligence for Paris at two o’clock, having nothing
else to do, I went to the custom-house to see the examination of the
luggage. Lazy custom-house officers and gendarmes were lounging about,
while heavy carts loaded with baggage were drawn up from the boat by
women!--and this while it was raining hard, and the poor creatures were
without hats or bonnets, and had only a handkerchief or a bit of cloth
tied over their heads. So much for this self-styled most refined and
polite nation! I noticed the poor things when their task was done and
they were waiting to convey the trunks, etc., from the custom-house to
the various hotels. Some were chatting in groups, apparently quite
content with their lot; a few were sleeping, and many, with the
characteristic industry of their sex, produced their knitting-work from
their pockets and were busily employed at a more appropriate and
feminine employment. I was amused at the strictness with which three
exceedingly unpleasant-looking fellows searched all our baggage, that of
the ladies not less than that of the men. Little parcels were opened,
dirty linen was overhauled and most minutely inspected; the whole scene
would have made a fit subject for the pencil of Hogarth. My
traveling-bag was examined from top to bottom, and I began to fear that
my trunk, which I had packed with care, would be sadly deranged, but
they contented themselves with cutting open a packet of seeds I was
taking from the Horticultural Society to De Candolle, and with seizing
as a great prize my rather formidable parcel of letters of introduction.
This was near causing me to be detained until the next diligence; but
the commissionaire succeeded in getting them sent up to the inspector in
another part of the town, upon whom we called, when after due
explanation had been made, and one or two of the letters read, they were
formally delivered back to me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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