Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
I can tell you what a French diligence is like. It is just like one of
the railroad cars (about three apartments) of the Harlem railroad, for
example, mounted on coach wheels; the horses are small, lean, shaggy,
and ugly; some seven of these beasts are fastened, three abreast and one
for a leader, with ropes to the said diligence; but how such beasts
contrive to draw such a cumbrous vehicle, loaded with seventeen persons
and their baggage, besides a driver and conductor, I don’t well
understand, although the beasts are changed every five or six miles; but
somehow we got over the ground pretty fast, and came to Paris, over one
hundred and forty miles, in a little less than thirty hours, although it
rained all the first day and part of the second, and the roads were
extremely muddy.
We arrived just before nightfall at Montreuil, a fine old fortified
French town situated on the summit of a hill and overlooking a broad
valley, which in summer must be quite beautiful; here we dined, and were
charged four francs each for dinner, besides sous to the garçon. I slept
pretty well in the night, during which we passed Abbéville, where there
is said to be a fine church. We breakfasted at the queer old town of
Beauvais, where there is a fine cathedral, of which I had a pretty good
view. My breakfast (déjeuner à la fourchette, which is the next thing to
a dinner) cost three and a half francs, for on this route you meet with
very English charges. I wished to say something about the country, but
have not room. Suffice it to say that we passed through the town of St.
Denis late in the afternoon, where I did not even get a glimpse of the
very ancient cathedral, and arrived at Paris just before nightfall.
After dinner, in company with a fellow-passenger, a young Englishman, I
gratified a long-felt curiosity by strolling through the Palais Royal
and some of the principal streets of Paris. On Sunday I attended church
in the morning (after a vain attempt to find the American Chapel) at the
Rev. Mr. Sayer’s English Episcopal Chapel, where I heard a good sermon;
and in the evening at the Methodist Chapel, where the Rev. Mr. Toase
preached a truly excellent discourse from Jeremiah viii. 13. All the
shops were open just as on any other day, and the gardens and parks were
all crowded. This morning I went down to the Jardin des Plantes,
stopping by the way to see the ancient church of Notre-Dame, where I
heard a portion of the Catholic service chanted.... At last, after
looking at many other buildings and objects of curiosity, about which I
will tell you more presently, I reached the garden, found Decaisne, who
could speak no English, and I almost no French; so he took me to Adrien
de Jussieu, who makes out to speak very tolerable English, and to
understand me pretty well. I left soon to call on Mr. Webb,[77] who is
an Englishman, for whom I had a letter from Hooker; thence after
looking in vain for “appartements garnis “ in Rue de l’Odéon, Place de
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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