As Gerowlia laboured up the stone-shod slope, the Englishman wondered
how much life had flowed down this sluice of battles, and been lost at
the Padal Pol--the last and lowest gate--where, in the old days, the
besieging armies put their best and bravest battalions. Once at the head
of the lower slope, there is a clear rundown of a thousand yards with no
chance of turning aside either to the right or left. Even as he
wondered, he was brought abreast of two stone chhatris, each carrying a
red daubed stone. They were the graves of two very brave men, Jeemal of
Bednore, and Kalla, who fell in Akbar’s sack fighting like Rajputs. Read
the story of their deaths, and learn what manner of warriors they were.
Their graves were all that spoke openly of the hundreds of struggles on
the lower slope where the fight was always fiercest.
At last, after half an hour’s climb, the main gate, the Ram Pol, was
gained, and the Englishman passed into the City of Chitor and--then and
there formed a resolution, since broken, not to write one word about it
for fear that he should be set down as a babbling and a gushing
enthusiast. Objects of archæological interest are duly described in an
admirable little book of Chitor which, after one look, the Englishman
abandoned. One cannot “do” Chitor with a guide-book. The Padre of the
English Mission to Jehangir said the best that was to be said, when he
described the place three hundred years ago, writing quaintly:--“Chitor,
an ancient great kingdom, the chief city so called which standeth on a
mighty high hill, flat on the top, walled about at the least ten English
miles. There appear to this day above a hundred ruined churches and
divers fair palaces which are lodged in like manner among their ruins,
as many Englishmen by the observation have guessed. Its chief
inhabitants to-day are Zum and Ohim, birds and wild beasts, but the
stately ruins thereof give a shadow of its beauty while it flourished in
its pride.” Gerowlia struck into a narrow pathway, forcing herself
through garden-trees and disturbing the peacocks. An evil guide-man on
the ground waved his hand, and began to speak; but was silenced. The
death of Amber was as nothing to the death of Chitor--a body whence the
life had been driven by riot and sword. Men had parcelled the gardens of
her palaces and the courtyards of her temples into fields; and cattle
grazed among the remnants of the shattered tombs. But over all--over
rent bastion, split temple-wall, pierced roof and prone pillar--lay the
“shadow of its beauty while it flourished in its pride.” The Englishman
walked into a stately palace of many rooms, where the sunlight streamed
in through wall and roof, and up crazy stone stairways, held together,
it seemed, by the marauding trees. In one bastion, a wind-sown peepul
had wrenched a thick slab clear of the wall, but held it tight pressed
in a crook of a branch, as a man holds down a fallen enemy under his
elbow, shoulder and forearm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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