The Englishman took a train from Ajmir to Marwar Junction, which is on
the road to Mount Abu, westward from Ajmir, and at five in the morning,
under pale moonlight, was uncarted at the beginning of the Jodhpur State
Railway--one of the quaintest little lines that ever ran a locomotive.
It is the Maharaja’s very own, and pays about ten per cent.; but its
quaintness does not lie in these things. It is worked with rude economy,
and started life by singularly and completely falsifying the Government
estimates for its construction. An intelligent Bureau asserted that it
could not be laid down for less than--but the error shall be glossed
over. It was laid down for a little more than seventeen thousand rupees
a mile, with the help of second-hand rails and sleepers; and it is
currently asserted that the Station-masters are flagmen, pointsmen,
ticket-collectors and everything else, except platforms and lamp-rooms.
As only two trains are run in the twenty-four hours, this economy of
staff does not matter in the least. The State line, with the
comparatively new branch to the Pachbadra salt-pits, pays handsomely,
and is exactly suited to the needs of its users. True, there is a
certain haziness as to the hour of starting, but this allows laggards
more time, and fills the packed carriages to overflowing.
From Marwar Junction to Jodhpur, the train leaves the Aravalis and goes
northwards into “the region of death” that lies beyond the Luni River.
Sand, _ak_ bushes, and sand-hills, varied with occasional patches of
unthrifty cultivation, make up the scenery. Rain has been very scarce in
Marwar this year, and the country, consequently, shows at its worst, for
almost every square mile of the kingdom nearly as large as Scotland is
dependent on the sky for its crops. In a good season, a large village
can pay from seven to nine thousand rupees revenue without blenching.
In a bad one, “all the king’s horses and all the king’s men” may think
themselves lucky if they raise “rupees fifteen only” from the same
place. The fluctuation is startling.
From a country-side, which to the uninitiated seems about as valuable as
a stretch of West African beach, the State gets a revenue of nearly
forty lakhs; and men who know the country vow that it has not been one
tithe exploited, and that there is more to be made from salt and the
marble and--curious thing in this wilderness--good forest conservancy,
than an open-handed Durbar dreams of. An amiable weakness for
unthinkingly giving away villages where ready cash failed, has somewhat
hampered the revenue in past years; but now--and for this the Maharaja
deserves great credit--Jodhpur has a large and genuine surplus, and a
very compact little scheme of railway extension. Before turning to a
consideration of the City of Jodhpur, hear a true story in connection
with the Hyderabad-Pachbadra project which those interested in the
scheme may lay to heart.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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