Letters of the Right Honourable Lady M—y W—y M—e: Written during Her Travels in Europe, Asia and Africa to Persons of Distinction, Men of Letters, &c. in Different Parts of EuropeMontagu, Mary Wortley, Lady
History
Letters of the Right Honourable Lady M—y W—y M—e: Written during Her Travels in Europe, Asia and Africa to Persons of Distinction, Men of Letters, &c. in Different Parts of Europe
Montagu, Mary Wortley, Lady
Authors, English -- 18th century -- Correspondence; British -- Foreign countries -- History -- 18th century; Diplomats' spouses -- Great Britain -- Correspondence; Montagu, Mary Wortley, Lady 1689-1762 -- Correspondence; Turkey -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Voyages and travels --
I SAW t'other day the Gala for Count Altheim, the emperor's
favourite, and never in my life saw so many fine clothes ill-fancied.
They embroider the richest gold stuffs; and provided they can make
their clothes expensive enough, that is all the taste they shew in
them. On other days, the general dress is a scarf, and what you
please under it.
BUT now I am speaking of Vienna, I am sure you expect I should say
something of the convents; they are of all sorts and sizes, but I am
best pleased with that of St Lawrence, where the ease and neatness
they seem to live with, appears to be much more edifying than those
stricter orders, where perpetual penance and nastiness must breed
discontent and wretchedness. The Nuns are all of quality. I think
there are to the number of fifty. They have each of them a little
cell perfectly clean, the walls of which are covered with pictures
more or less fine, according to their quality. A long white stone
gallery runs by all of them, furnished With the pictures of exemplary
sisters; the chapel is extremely neat and richly adorned. But I
could not forbear laughing at their shewing me a wooden head of our
Saviour, which, they assured me, spoke during the siege of Vienna;
and, as a proof of it, bid me mark his mouth, which had been open
ever since. Nothing can be more becoming than the dress of these
Nuns. It is a white robe, the sleeves of which are turned up with
fine white callico (sic), and their head-dress the same, excepting a
small veil of black crape that falls behind. They have a lower sort
of serving Nuns, that wait on them as their chambermaids. They
receive all visits of women, and play at ombre in their chambers,
with permission of their abbess, which is very easy to be obtained.
I never saw an old woman so good-natured; she is near fourscore, and
yet shews very little sign of decay, being still lively and
cheerful. She caressed me as if I had been her daughter, giving me
some pretty things of her own work, and sweetmeats in abundance. The
grate is not of the most rigid; it is not very hard to put a head
through, and I don't doubt but a man, a little more slender than
ordinary, might squeeze in his whole person. The young count of
Salamis came to the grate, while I was there, and the abbess gave him
her hand to kiss. But I was surprised to find here, the only
beautiful young woman I have seen at Vienna, and not only beautiful
but genteel, witty, and agreeable, of a great family, and who had
been the admiration of the town. I could not forbear shewing my
surprise at seeing a Nun like her. She made me a thousand obliging
compliments, and desired me to come often. It will be an infinite
pleasure to me, (said she, sighing) but I avoid, with the greatest
care, seeing any of my former acquaintance, and whenever they come to
our convent, I lock myself in my cell. I observed tears come into
her eyes, which touched me extremely, and I began to talk to her in
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