Letters written in France, to a friend in London, between the month of November 1794, and the month of May 1795Tench, Watkin
History
Letters written in France, to a friend in London, between the month of November 1794, and the month of May 1795
Tench, Watkin
France -- History -- Revolution, 1789-1799 -- Personal narratives, British; Tench, Watkin, 1759?-1833 -- Correspondence
The town stands in a bottom, encompassed by high hills, and the largest
part of it is built on a neck of land formed by the confluence of two
rivers. I have often thought it like Plymouth; but it is not so large,
although even now extremely populous. Its streets are narrow, winding,
and dirty; and their former names have been changed into others of a
revolutionary sound, such as the street of Voltaire, the street of
Mably, the square of Liberty, &c. &c. The greatest part of the houses
are very ancient and mean; but a few are large and stately, with walls
whose thickness seems intended for endless duration. On entering them, I
was surprized to see the unfinished state of most of the apartments,
which are uncieled, the bare beams and cross-pieces presenting
themselves to view. I shall be within the bounds of truth when I assert,
that of 1500 houses, which are perhaps in the town, not fifty have each
a cieled room, and not ten, or even five, have the whole apartments of
the ground and first floor cieled. The bottoms of the rooms are as
unsightly as the tops, from the gaping chasms of the planks which
compose them; and the dirty state in which the floors and furniture are
kept, is disgusting. Nevertheless in some respects the interior of these
houses deserves regard. The vast mirrors which adorn their best
apartments, and the beautiful plate glass of the windows, far exceed
what are seen in English houses, except those of the first fashion. The
French engravings I prefer to all others, and a few very good ones are
still left here, though defaced, by having their dedications to princes,
_maréchaux de France_, and other great men, very clumsily erased. Of
plate too it is said they formerly displayed sumptuous side-boards; but
these have disappeared, having been either buried or committed to the
crucible. Indeed it was become necessary to adopt one or other of these
measures; for soon after the 10th of August 1792, the democratic lust of
destruction rose to such a height, as to order all family distinctions
derived from ancestry, and all heraldic emblems whatever, to be erased,
not only from the outsides of the houses, but from every article of
furniture. Even the armorial bearings engraved on the most trifling
toys, a snuff-box, a ring, or a seal, were obliterated; and the
post-office took care to detain all letters, of which the seals were
impressed with those shocking emblems of aristocracy. I now eat with
spoons whence the family marks are carefully expunged, the observation
of which led to my enquiries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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