Life and Letters of Thomas Henry Huxley — Volume 1Huxley, Thomas Henry
Science
Life and Letters of Thomas Henry Huxley — Volume 1
Huxley, Thomas Henry
Huxley, Thomas Henry, 1825-1895; Naturalists -- England -- Biography
After a long and somewhat rough passage from the Cape, we made the
highland of the Isle of France on the afternoon of the 3rd of this
month, and passing round the northern extremity of the island, were
towed into Port Louis by the handsomest of tugs about noon on the 4th.
In my former letter I have spoken to you of the beauty of the places we
have visited, of the picturesque ruggedness of Madeira, the fine
luxuriance of Rio, and the rude and simple grandeur of South Africa.
Much of my admiration has doubtless arisen from the novelty of these
tropical or semitropical scenes, and would be less vividly revived by a
second visit. I have become in a manner blase with fine sights and
something of a critic. All this is to lead you to believe that I have
really some grounds for the raptures I am going into presently about
Mauritius. In truth it is a complete paradise, and if I had nothing
better to do, I should pick up some pretty French Eve (and there are
plenty) and turn Adam. N.B. There are NO serpents in the island.
This island is, you know, the scene of St. Pierre's beautiful story of
Paul and Virginia, over which I suppose most people have sentimentalised
at one time or another of their lives. Until we reached here I did not
know that the tale was like the lady's improver--a fiction founded on
fact, and that Paul and Virginia were at one time flesh and blood, and
that their veritable dust was buried at Pamplemousses in a spot
considered as one of the lions of the place, and visited as classic
ground. Now, though I never was greatly given to the tender and
sentimental, and have not had any tendencies that way greatly increased
by the elegancies and courtesies of a midshipman's berth,--not to say
that, as far as I recollect, Mdlle. Virginia was a bit of a prude, and
M. Paul a pump,--yet were it but for old acquaintance sake, I determined
on making a pilgrimage. Pamplemousses is a small village about seven
miles from Port Louis, and the road to it is lined by rows of tamarind
trees, of cocoanut trees, and sugarcanes. I started early in the morning
in order to avoid the great heat of the middle of the day, and having
breakfasted at Port Louis, made an early couple of hours' walk of it,
meeting on my way numbers of the coloured population hastening to market
in all the varieties of their curious Hindoo costume. After some trouble
I found my way to the "Tombeaux" as they call them. They are situated in
a garden at the back of a house now in the possession of one Mr. Geary,
an English mechanist, who puts up half the steam engines for the sugar
mills in the island. The garden is now an utter wilderness, but still
very beautiful; round it runs a grassy path, and in the middle of the
path on each side towards the further extremity of the garden is a
funeral urn supported on a pedestal, and as dilapidated as the rest of
the affair. These dilapidations, as usual, are the work of English
visitors, relic-hunters, who are as shameless here as elsewhere. I was
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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