[Illustration: THE TAJ MAHAL FROM THE RIVER.] LIFE AND TRAVEL IN INDIA BEING RECOLLECTIONS OF A JOURNEY BEFORE THE DAYS OF RAILROADS BY ANNA HARRIETTE LEONOWENS _Author of "Siam and the Siamese"_ _ILLUSTRATED_ PHILADELPHIA HENRY T. COATES & CO. 1897 Copyright, 1884, BY PORTER & COATES. THIS LITTLE VOLUME OF TRAVELS Is Inscribed to MR. AND MRS. WILLIAM W. JUSTICE, IN GRATEFUL APPRECIATION OF THEIR FRIENDSHIP, BY THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE The Island of Bambâ Dèvi.--Sights and Scenes round about Bombay 7 CHAPTER II. Malabar Hill, and Domestic Life of the English in Bombay 39 CHAPTER III. The Island of Shastee, commonly called Salsette.--Gharipoore, "the Town of Purification," or the Island and Caves of Elephanta 51 CHAPTER IV. Sampwallas, or Serpent-Charmers.--Jâdoowallahs, or Miracle-Performers.--Nuzer-Bundyânâ, Mesmerizers.--Yogees, Spiritual Jugglers, and Naga-Poojmi, or Serpent-Worship, in India 65 CHAPTER V. The Parsees, or Fire-Worshippers, of Bombay.--A Visit to a Fire-Priest and Astrologer.--His Astral Predictions.--The Gâthas. --Zoroaster.--His Life and Religion.--History of the Settlement of the Parsees in India 79 CHAPTER VI. Domestic Life of the Fire-Worshippers.--The Zend-Avesta.--Parsee Rites and Ceremonies at Birth, Marriage, Death, and Final Consignment to the Tower of Silence 105 CHAPTER VII. Hindoo Treatment of the Sick.--Pundit's House Defiled.--Its Purification.--Short Sketch of the Different Races and of the Origin of Castes and Creeds among the People of Hindostan 129 CHAPTER VIII. A Visit to the House of Baboo Ram Chunder.--His Wife.--Rajpoot Wrestlers.--Nautchnees, or Hindoo Ballet-Girls.--A Hindoo Drama.--Visit to a Nautchnees' School.--Bayahdiers, or Dancing-Girls, attached to the Hindoo Temples.--Profession, Education, Dress, Character, Fate in Old Age and After Death.--Cusbans, or Common Women.--Marked Differences between these three Classes of Public Women 173 CHAPTER IX. From Bombay to Poonah, the Capital of the Maha Rastra, or the great Indian Kings.--Campooly.--The Ascent of the Bhor Ghauts.--Khondala.--Caves of Carlee or Karli.--"Puja Chakra," or the famous Wheel-Worship of the Brahmans.--Poonah.--Kirki.--A Visit to the Peishwa's Palace.--Temple of Parvati.--The Pundit and the Brahmin Priest at Prayer.--Sanscrit and English Colleges at Poonah.--Suttee Monuments at Sangam.--Hindoo Bankers, etc. 208 CHAPTER X.