Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
My womanly curiosity led me into the kitchen of this very well-to-do
Portuguese family. It was in keeping with the rest of the place. It was
a low wooden structure, black with smoke and age; a long range of open
fireplaces, made of brick and mortar, ran along on one side; on these
earthen _chatties_, or earthen pots, were boiling away, some covered and
others uncovered; but hanging from the roof above these pots were long
lines of blackened cobwebs that looked as if they had remained
undisturbed for a hundred years. The servants were all men, native
Christians, and were overlooking the cooking or attending to various
culinary duties. They were filthy beyond measure, and so was every nook
and corner of the kitchen. The native Portuguese in this old-fashioned
city of Damaun struck me as peculiarly uninteresting in their manners
and appearance. We saw them in the streets, seated on the verandahs or
doorsteps of their houses, chattering or laughing or quarrelling with
their neighbors in shrill, harsh tones and with ungraceful gestures. In
some aspects Oriental Christianity seems even more degrading than the
worst form of paganism.
In the afternoon of the same day, as we were walking about the town, we
passed a wedding-procession on its way to the Roman Catholic church,
which served in some slight degree to soften the unfavorable impression
produced by the people and the town. It was a gaudy sight. Sheets were
spread along the street leading to the steps of the chapel; flowers,
chiefly the oleander, the rose, and the _mohgre_,[82] were scattered all
over these sheets by dark-skinned Portuguese girls dressed in long white
trousers and old-fashioned pink frocks. Presently the church-bells began
to tinkle merrily, and a company of dark-hued damsels issued in full
sight, dressed in tinsel and gold, with long white muslin veils, almost
like the Hindoo sarees, bound round their persons. The bride was closely
veiled from head to foot in something that looked like the _purdah_[83]
worn by Mohammedan women. We could not see her, but I pleased myself
with imagining that she was young and beautiful. Close to her were two
young women bearing lighted torches, and in the foremost rank were two
Portuguese priests, who led the way to the chapel (once a mosque), each
bearing a silver-mounted crucifix. The bridegroom brought up the rear
dressed as an English general, with a dark-blue embroidered frock-coat,
golden epaulettes, scarlet pantaloons, sword, and a cocked hat with
feathers, accompanied by at least twelve other native gentlemen
similarly attired; but many of these grand-looking officers were
barefooted. This grotesque procession rushed into the chapel in unseemly
haste, and we followed. There was nothing very remarkable in the
exterior of this chapel. But within, the principal altar was very richly
adorned with gilt images of Christ, the Virgin, and saints, with
handsome candlesticks and a great deal of gold and tinsel. There seemed
to be but few seats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account