Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
We crossed an old Hindoo bridge of curious structure consisting of
arches placed one over the other, and spanning an impetuous but
extraordinarily beautiful river still bearing the polished Sanskrit name
of _Vishwamitra_, or "the friendly preserver." It flows strong and swift
for many miles through a deep rocky channel. Its banks are singularly
striking in some parts, rising on either side from fifty to sixty feet.
Its waters, instead of appearing friendly, seemed dark and turbulent,
not unlike the barbaric city which stretched along its banks. Temples,
mosques, tombs, mausoleums, and dark, sombre-looking fortresses are seen
everywhere; great flights of stone steps lead to the fast-flowing river,
and all day long these are crowded with men and women washing, bathing,
or filling their water-jars. The suburbs of Baroda extend for miles, and
in the most densely crowded part of the capital the streets are narrow
and crooked, the houses mostly of wood, but built with a view of
architectural effect. Some are almost like pretty Swiss châlets, and
others not unlike Italian villas. At the cross-roads and in various
parts of the streets and lanes are seen queer little temples with the
oddest of gods and goddesses enshrined in them--deities of the woods,
fountains, streams, and even of the streets--and over these fluttered
the gay-colored flags of the Guicowar. As for the inhabitants of Baroda,
as seen in the streets, verandahs, and shops, they are quite
characteristic. Specimens of every Eastern nationality may be seen here,
and, what is more, in the martial atmosphere of the place they seemed
more like freebooters, murderers, and warriors than like the simple
citizens of a great agricultural district such as Guzerat presents
outside of her cities and towns.
The city proper, or rather the citadel, is walled. It is entered by huge
gateways guarded by soldiers, and made even more imposing by the lofty
round towers that crown it on either side. It is divided into four
portions, three of which are occupied by the nobility of the court of
Guzerat, and the other by the palaces and buildings of the Guicowar
himself. The antechamber of the palace is a huge stone structure
supporting a many-storied wooden balcony, from the centre of which rises
a lofty pyramidal clock-tower painted in various colors and looking
fantastic beyond description. Here we saw the Guicowar going to worship
at some temple; he was preceded by a number of led horses and elephants
splendidly caparisoned; then came his standard borne on a great
elephant, followed by the Guicowar himself. After him came men on foot
in scarlet dresses, and more elephants. The elephants here are trained
for riding, hunting, war, and even as executioners and combatants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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