Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
The English station is very picturesquely situated, and is purely
European in appearance. The contrast is all the more striking after
seeing the citadel of the Guicowar. It is on the north bank of the river
Vishwamitra, and not far from the great highway are the British
residency and travellers' bungalow, where we were most comfortably
lodged.
One of the most ancient and curious temples to be seen here is situated
at the west end of the suburbs of Baroda. It is called Ghai Dawale, "the
cow temple." The front is imposing. A portico with granite pillars
admits you into a series of vaulted chambers, and there are numberless
idols of gods and goddesses enshrined in niches, with offerings of
flowers before them and red paint sprinkled over their persons. A great
many corridors lead to other chambers, cells, vaults, and mysterious
retreats that have sprung up round it owing to the vast number of
priestesses called Páthars attached to it. Another feature of Baroda are
the magnificent _bowries_, or wells, that are found here; some are in
themselves most exquisite pieces of architecture, and may be called
temples built over reservoirs. The entrance to these well-temples are by
five or more pavilions; thence a flight of stone steps leads to a second
dome, which is arched, and under the outer dome, which is in its turn
supported by lofty pillars and is pyramidal, then more steps and more
pillars, until the level of the water is reached, which is again covered
by a last and beautiful dome supported by innumerable short pillars. The
largest of these wells in Baroda is called _Nou Laki_, or "Nine Laks,"
from its having cost that amount in building. It was erected by
Suleiman, the governor of Baroda in A. H. (Mohammedan) 807. The water is
very delicious, and here people from all parts of the country assemble
to drink--mendicant Brahmans, gossains for alms, and fakeer carriers of
relics to trade. The latter is not a mendicant, but a religious trader,
whose chief claim to sanctity consists in the marks he wears on his brow
and nose. These men go from place to place carrying their curious relics
in curtained baskets slung across their shoulders; their shirts and
cumberbunds are filled with balls, beads, and pins made from the wood of
the _toolie_[85] and other sacred trees. They have beads of sandal and
other woods strung into necklaces, bracelets, armlets, and anklets, mud
figures of gods and goddesses made of the sacred clay of the Ganges, the
Godaveri, and the Brahmapootra, precious bones of saints and prophets
carved into amulets, and any quantity of yellow threads as a
preservative against the evil eye. Women and children flock round these
relic-carriers, and in return for grain, cloth, silver, and gold they
will fasten a small yellow thread, a bead, an amulet, or a precious bit
of some dead saint's bone--these, however, they part with only for gold
or silver--around their wrists, arms, neck, and feet, to preserve the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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