Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
On the morning following our arrival, furnished with two guides and
accompanied by our pundit, we started off to visit some of these
remarkable excavations in the mountains that stretch across the middle
of this island. At first, the road, though very narrow and rugged, lies
through a most beautiful valley formed by hills of moderate height,
covered with forests to their summits, with here and there patches of
bare rock, while the ravines and the valley itself were planted with
groves of mangoes and several varieties of the palm. For some time we
saw but few traces of inhabitants; we passed during a ride of more than
eight miles but one small village, a collection of most
miserable-looking huts, a few half-starved looking children, and a troop
of pariah dogs, who rushed out to bark at us.
At another small village, named Viarè, we came upon what seemed a
jungle, open in some parts and in others densely thick, abounding in
hyenas, tigers, panthers, and the wild-boar; passing through this with
anything but pleasurable feelings, we reached Toolsey, named after a
famous Hindoo goddess who, like the Greek Clytie, loved some Hindoo god,
and was by him, out of pity for her unrequited passion, transformed into
the beautiful toolsey-plant, whence her name. This is a lovely spot,
encircled with hills, the highest of which is Khennari, its face
perforated with no less than one hundred cavern temples. Under a fine
banyan tree which stands in an open plain we passed the night. In
northern latitudes one can form no idea of the peculiar beauty of the
night with a bright moon shining overhead.
Almost at dawn next morning we set off for the temples. The ascent to
the Khennari Hills is somewhat steep and difficult, but after a hard
climb we gained a platform, and was confronted by a stone porch leading
into an arched cavern temple of great majesty and beauty. These cavern
temples are scattered over both sides of a high rocky hill at many
different elevations, consisting of no less than six stories or tiers of
caverns, of various sizes and forms, all excavated out of the rocky
surface of the mountain and connected with each other by narrow stone
steps cut in the rock. The façades and great court are most imposing.
Entering through a fine lofty portico, we saw a little to the left hand
a curious octagonal pillar, detached from the rock and surmounted by
three well-carved lions seated back to back. Passing this, we were
suddenly introduced into an elaborately carved vestibule, at the end of
which is a colossal statue of Buddha, with his hands raised in the
attitude of benediction. The stone screen which here separates the
vestibule from the body of the temple is covered with a row of male and
female figures half nude; the expression of the faces of these figures
is remarkably calm and thoughtful, and the whole is executed with
considerable spirit. Above them the rocks are carved into a profusion of
graceful sculptures.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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