To Darjeeling--Railway journeys in India--Protection for solitary ladies--Reappearing rivers--Siliguri--At the foot of the Himalayas--A mountain railway--Through the jungle--Looping the loop--View of the Plains--Darjeeling--Civilisation seven thousand feet high--Varied types--View from the Chaurasta--White workers in India--Life in Hill Stations--Lieutenant-Governors--A "dull time" in Darjeeling--The bazaar--Types of hill races--Turquoises--Tiger-skins for tourists--The Amusement Club--The Everlasting Snows--Kinchinjunga--The bachelors' ball--A Government House ball--The marriage-market value of Indian civilians--Less demand for military men--Theatricals--Lebong Races--Picturesque race-goers--Ladies in India--Husband hunters--The empty life of an Englishwoman--The dangers of Hill Stations--A wife four months in the year--The hills _taboo_ for the subaltern--Back to Buxa 262 CHAPTER XIV A JUNGLE FORT I decide on Fort Bower--Felling trees--A big python--Clearing the jungle--Laying out the post--Stockades and _Sungars_--The bastions--_Panjis_ and _abattis_--The huts--Jungle materials--Ingenious craftsmen--The furniture--Sentry-posts--Alarm signals--The _machicoulis_ gallery--Booby-traps--The water-lifter--The hospital--Chloroforming a monkey--Jungle dogs--An extraordinary shot--An unlucky deer--A meeting with a panther--The alarm--Sohanpal Singh and the tiger--Turning out to the rescue--The General's arrival--Closed gates--The inspection--The "Bower" and the "'Ump"--Flares and bombs--The General's praise--Night firing--A Christmas camp 280 CHAPTER XV FAREWELL TO THE HILLS