Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
Before daylight, we were again on the move. The appearance of the
country continues the same, but the houses, as we proceed farther
up, are not quite so numerous; the gardens do not extend above a few
hundred yards from the river, and we could observe the line of the
forest even from our boat. We nowhere found the water shallow till we
turned up the left-hand branch that leads to the Bukar tribe; here
it becomes very narrow and is obstructed by trees and branches, and
occasionally little pebbly rapids. It was often almost impassable from
the old trunks of fallen trees that stretched from bank to bank; but by
the greatest patience and perseverance, and by removing the covering of
our boat, we passed over some and under others of these obstructions:
at last all these difficulties were surmounted, and we reached the
landing-place of the Munggu Babi Bukars about half-past two, after
upwards of eight hours’ hard work.
It was pleasant to leave the perpetual mud flat of the Samarahan and
get into this branch, where occasionally rocks, and banks overshadowed
by the enormous trees of the old forest, with glimpses of hills and
distant mountains, varied the scene. The Samarahan, though not a very
picturesque river, would afford great satisfaction to any one who
contemplated sugar plantations. The soil is of the richest description,
and, from the existing cultivation, we may infer what it would become
in the hands of able Chinese agriculturists. These Malays neither use
the spade, the hoe, nor the plough, but simply stir the soil with a
pointed stick, or with their iron choppers.
At the landing-place we met a party of Sadong and Bukar Dayaks, who
shouldered our baggage; we then started on our way to Munggu Babi. The
path at first was detestable--the worst of paths, over slippery trunks
and branches of huge trees lying scattered over the sites of their
old rice farms, very perilous, as the slightest slip endangered the
safety of a limb. To the bare-footed Dayak it is nothing, but shoes
render it unpleasant; however, it soon changed into the ordinary style;
and getting rapidly over about four miles, we arrived at the foot of
the hill on which the houses are built. They were entirely hidden by
fruit-trees. Beyond rose the mountains of Sadong, which can be seen
from the decks of the ships that pass along the coast. At the foot
of Munggu Babi flowed a delightful stream into which we plunged to
dispel some little fatigue arising from the heat. Our Dayak attendants
had pushed on with our baggage, and being now refreshed we began
climbing the steep that separated us from the houses; no sooner was
this observed, than every available brass wall-piece was fired in our
honour, and it was under this salute that we entered the village.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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