Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
The most remarkable peculiarity of many of these men is their being
so hairy in comparison to those of other tribes, some having regular
whiskers, and others beards. The women have their limbs spoilt from
carrying heavy weights, even from their tenderest age, over exceedingly
steep ground; their legs appeared bent. I saw one mother bearing on her
back two children, and a basket containing twenty or more bamboos full
of water, the latter a sufficient load for one person. In the harvest,
they act as beasts of burden, and bring the bulk of the rice home. The
children, in general, were very clean and pleasing.
We started early in the morning for Lanchang, the second division
of the Bukar tribe that we intended to visit. The path was over
the Sadong mountains, where a depression in the range renders its
elevation not perhaps over a thousand feet. As we moved along the
open ground among the fenced-in gardens, we were enabled to obtain
a very extensive view of the surrounding country, and I have rarely
seen one of greater beauty; the variety of form assumed by the hills
from the mountain range to the isolated peak rising from the fertile
plain of the Samarahan and Quop, the extent of ground over which
the eye could travel from the Santubong and the sea to the interior
hills of Sadong, rendered it almost as lovely and as interesting as
the famous scene from the summit of the Penang Hill. It wanted but
the civilized appearance which is found there--the houses, villas,
churches, ships, and roads. The way over the hill was very difficult,
consisting entirely of small felled trees, notched, and in a very
rotten state, and sometimes both steep and slippery. However, we got
over it without a fall, and managed to work our way to the opposite
side, whence the valley of the Bukar stream and the interior of the
Sadong are visible--pretty enough, but all scenery here has similar
characteristics.
The sun was very warm, and the perspiration ran from me in streams; but
meeting with a cool rivulet, shaded by overhanging rocks, not by trees,
we sat still till perfectly cooled, and then refreshed ourselves by a
bathe under a tiny but foaming cascade. The two Sibuyau youths who had
been so fascinated by the fair maidens the previous night looked very
woful this morning, and could hardly get along at all or carry their
own baggage, but sat moodily looking at the water, with their heads
pressed lightly between their hands.
From this spot our path continued among the valleys, over rice
plantations, without any remarkable feature. At length we reached the
village of Lanchang, on the borders of a pebbly stream. It is built
on the low land, and has a greater appearance of comfort than Munggu
Babi. As we were their first European visitors, we excited a great
deal of curiosity; but forcing our way through the crowd, we took up
our quarters in the head-house, making our beds, as usual, beneath a
ghastly row of skulls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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