Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
The visit of the steamer was not timed very fortunately, as Tamadin,
an influential chief, with a large party, was away head-hunting; and
a rumour had arrived of a very severe loss having been suffered by a
force that started for the interior of the Limbang and Trusan rivers.
If we could stay twenty days we should see all the population; but I
have had a hint that the provisions are running short, and nothing can
be procured here but a few pigs, fowls, and goats, all very dear.
I have calculated the population of this town, called Lañgusin, at
2,500 souls, and this is perhaps under the mark. From my inquiries,
however, the interior must be tolerably well peopled.
At ten o’clock at night, the shouts and yells of the Kayans on shore
were borne to us, as they were working with might and main to finish
the long village-house of Tamawan. He gave them some drink, and they
worked half the night.
They showed me some very pretty mats to-day made by the wandering tribe
of Punans, who live on jungle produce, and collect honey and wax.
Next day I sent some presents to Siñgauding and Tamawan, and at their
special invitation went ashore to meet them. A large temporary shed
sheltered us from the sun. There was no inconvenient crowding, not more
than a hundred men being assembled, and about twenty women, the wives
and daughters of their chiefs. Among them there were some interesting
girls. They wore their long black hair quite loose, only white fillets
being bound round the forehead, so as to cast the hair in heavy masses
over their ears and down their backs. Their countenances were open,
bright dark eyes, smooth foreheads, depressed noses, clear skin, but
indifferent mouths. They had good figures and well set up busts. I
have as yet seen no old women and men in the tribe.
One of the objects of my visit was to inquire into the alleged bad
conduct of an English trader and of a Sarawak Malay. I spent two hours
in this investigation. When this was over, native arrack and some of
my French brandy was introduced. About a third of a tumbler of the
former was handed to me. As I raised it to my lips, the whole assembly
burst out into what appeared a drinking chorus; and this they did when
any man of note drank. A little spirit getting into them, they became
more cheerful and amusing; and we talked about their head-hunting
propensities. The wholesome advice I felt compelled to give them on
this subject made them feel thirsty, and Tamawan seizing a bottle,
filled two tumblers two-thirds full of raw spirit and handed it to me,
and asked me to drink with him to the friendship of the two nations.
Could I refuse? No. I raised the tumbler to my lips, and amid a very
excited chorus allowed the liquor to flow down.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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