Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
We were not fortunate in the time of our visit, as most of the people
were away preparing their farms. We took up our residence in the
head-house, which, however, was destitute of the usual ornaments. It
was quite new. All head-houses have the same appearance, being built
on high posts above the ground, and in a circular form, with a sharp
conical roof. The windows are, in fact, a large portion of the roof,
being raised up, like the lid of a desk, during fine weather, and
supported by props; but when rain or night comes on, they are removed,
and the whole appearance is snug in the extreme, particularly when a
bright fire is lit in the centre, and throws a fitful glow on all the
surrounding objects. Around the room are rough divans, on which the men
usually sit or sleep, but that night, there being a cold wind and a
drizzling rain, a good fire was kept up, and the people crowded near.
I awoke at about two, and put my head out of my curtains to look at a
night-scene: a dozen of the old men were there collected close over
the fire, smoking the tobacco we had given them, and discoursing in
a low tone about us. The flames occasionally shot up brilliantly and
showed me the curious group, and then, as they faded away, nothing but
the outlines of the half-naked old men could be seen cowering over the
embers, as a ruder blast or a heavier shower brought the cold wind upon
them.
Started early in the morning. The limestone rock, undermined in every
direction, was worn into very singular shapes. Occasionally the tall
trees, finding insufficient support, had broken from the bank, and
slipped their roots into the river, to be completely washed away
by next flood. At ten, brought up on a pebbly beach for breakfast,
opposite a little cave, about which the Dayaks have as usual a
story--this time an indelicate one. Continuing our course, we reached
the mountain of Rumbang, remarkable for its curious caves. We had
brought guides with us from San Pro, and stopping at the nearest point
went ashore, and after a walk and climb of a few hundred yards, reached
the entrance of the first cave. Descending over a few rough stones,
we found ourselves in the interior, through which a small stream makes
its way. Having lighted a candle and a torch, we advanced--now fording
the brook, now jumping over it: the floor is principally pebbly, though
occasionally we met with soft sand and slippery rock. The cave itself
has no remarkable feature, but is nevertheless interesting. Its height
varied between thirty, forty, and fifty feet--its exit beautiful in
rugged feature in a soft light, which subdued the uncouth shapes of
the rocks, and rendered them striking and pleasing to the eye. This we
particularly noticed on our return, when we approached the entrance.
Then the light played on the surface of the stream, as it bubbled
onward in its course, and the reflection slightly illuminated the
surrounding features, reminding me of a robber’s cave in a dissolving
view.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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