Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
To-day we only penetrated through the mountain and looked at the
country beyond, a restricted view, as the jungle closely hemmed round
the cave: afterwards I heard that we need not have returned the way we
came, but that if we did not fear a steep climb, there was a cavern
exactly above the one we had come through that would lead us back to
the river--in fact, an upper tunnel. We thought at first it must be a
joke of the Dayaks, but they assured us of the truth: so we told them
to lead the way. It was difficult, in fact very difficult, until we
came to an overhanging rock, against which a long pole leant with an
occasional cross-piece; at the top was another overhanging one, round
which it was necessary to pass by leaning the body over the abyss,
and trusting entirely to our hands and to the strength of the roots.
The Dayak guide led the way, and as we approached this difficulty we
observed him smile. It was at an unfortunate boast. When we first
proposed to make the ascent, our guide observed--“No one but a Dayak
can go up there.” I unfortunately answered, “Wherever a Dayak can go,
an Englishman can follow.” Hence his smile. He proceeded cautiously,
as these rough ladders are often rotten, and, it is said, occasionally
left unfastened to entrap an unwary thief, who may desire to pilfer
the edible swallows’ nests found in the upper caves. When he had
reached the summit, he invited me to follow; there was no help for it,
so I tried; the pole was no great difficulty, but the rounding the
overhanging rock with my body leaning over the abyss tested my strength
and nerve; one of the party followed, the other thought it wiser to
return by the way he came. It repaid us, however; the cave, though not
lofty, was full of large chambers, of narrow passages, and occasionally
of huge chasms penetrating to the depths below. They said the whole
mountain was perforated by these galleries. Our return to the boat was
difficult, as we had to force our way through the tangled bushes, and
over ground unknown even to the Dayaks. We found our companion seated
in the boat, discussing some cool claret and water, and as he beheld
us coming in tired, hot, covered with dirt, and with clothes half torn
from our bodies, I fear he did not envy us.
Our men had now to drop their paddles once at least in every reach, and
to seize their poles and force us along up the gradually lengthening
rapids; the motion of the boat thus propelled is exceedingly pleasant;
at one spot we noticed a Dayak suspension-bridge that spanned the river
above a dangerous rapid. Kasim, a favourite follower, turned to us and
said, “It was here that the Datu Tumanggong nearly lost his life.” We
asked how. I will let Kasim relate his story; it is an illustration of
Bornean ways.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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