Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
The walk was pleasant, principally over the land that had formerly been
farmed, and was now covered with brushwood and young trees, affording
but little shelter from the burning sun. The country was undulating,
with pretty pebbly streams in the hollows. Much rain having fallen in
this neighbourhood during the last few days the paths were execrable,
even for Dayak paths, which are, perhaps, the worst in the world. Over
a marshy soil a line of single trees is laid, end to end, on which you
balance yourself as you move along; there is no danger here, except of
a slip into the oozy mud, sometimes up to the waist, affording to the
non-sufferers great cause of merriment as you struggle and flounder
to a drier spot; but these trunks of trees thrown over ravines are
dangerous after rain, as when deprived of their bark they are slippery.
But it is astonishing what use will do; we soon began to criticize and
pronounce a wretched quagmire a tolerable path. The Dayak is so active,
and so accustomed to the work, that he seldom thinks of doing more
than felling a small tree, clearing it of its branches, and throwing
it across the smaller streams as a bridge, except after harvest, when
carrying home the rice, a slight railing is added to give steadiness to
his movements.
The village of Grung is prettily situated near a small and clear
stream, and is surrounded by dense groves of fruit-trees, particularly
of durians, while occasionally the graceful areca palm rises near the
houses. In one thing the Grungs excel every other tribe of Dayaks I
have ever seen, and that is in dirt; their houses were dirty, their
mats were dirty, and their little children could only be described as
positively filthy.
We found the village crowded with the representatives of all the
neighbouring tribes; long strings of men, women, and children were
continually arriving as we approached. Directly we ascended the notched
tree that served as a ladder to the Orang Kaya’s house, we found
that we were no longer free agents. A crowd of old women instantly
seized us, and pulled off our shoes and stockings, and commenced most
vigorously washing our feet; this water was preserved to fertilize the
fields. We were then conducted to a platform but slightly raised above
the floor, and requested to sit down, but the mats were so dirty that
we could scarcely prevail upon ourselves to do so--perhaps the only
time it has occurred to us; generally the mats are charmingly neat and
clean. The arrival of our bedding freed us from this difficulty.
We were surrounded by a dense mass of men, women, and children, who
appeared all to be talking at once; in fact, more excitement was shown
than I have before observed. We had to do so many things, and almost
all at once: to sprinkle rice about, to pour a little water on each
child that was presented to us, until, from force of example, the women
and even the men insisted upon the same ceremony being performed on
them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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