It is two p.m., and no sign of Orang Kaya Upit yet; this delay is very provoking, as we can get no provisions here. Last night, at six, I sent a party with Orang Kaya Napur down the river to find Kadayan, an Adang man, and try and induce him to follow us; he promises to come in the morning. We had a long talk last night about various matters. Old Japer was telling us of the belief of the wild tribes. Having been converted, however, he laughs at the follies of his countrymen, and therefore spoils his narration. His conversion, however, is but skin deep. He says they believe in antus, or spirits, one of whom is far greater than the rest; he it was who “made the woods, the mountains, and the streams, and is above all and over all.” The Pakatans call him Guha, the Kayans, Totaduñgan. He denies that head-hunting is a religious ceremony among them; it is merely to show their bravery and manliness, that it may be said so and so has obtained heads; when they quarrel, it is a constant phrase, “How many heads did your father or grandfather get?” If less than his own number, “Well, then, you have no occasion to be proud!” That the possession of heads gives them great consideration as warriors and men of wealth; the skulls being prized as the most valuable of goods. “Alas! when I was a Kapir (infidel) I took more than forty heads,” hypocritical sorrow, but real pride, in his tone. He adds that hunting is the greatest pleasure of the wild tribes, and that the wild boar is exceedingly fierce, and makes a good fight; it requires much skill to conquer him. “It is a delight for me to look back on my hunting days.” The China trader that lives at the Pangkalan Tarap came and promised his assistance in getting sago, which we must use as a substitute for rice. _29th._--A little rain last night, and a dirty-looking morning. No Orang Kaya Upit. We are now opposite the Chinaman’s house. I shall push on to-morrow morning, guide or no guide, and trust to their following us. 2 p.m.--Kadayan and a companion have come, and promise to be guides, but as they have to return to their houses, I have no confidence that they will follow, but only cause us fresh delays; however, as I have obtained a pikul[4] of raw sago, and seven gantangs[5] of beans, I can better afford to wait. They put every difficulty in the way, and lie like troopers as to the distance, declaring it to be a journey of six months for us who take food; they say, also, that they are in debt at Adang, and in debt here. I have given each a piece of blachu,[6] to buy food for their families; and I have sent a crew away to try and borrow a couple of sampirs. _30th._--This morning the lazy Orang Kaya Upit joined us with three men; their omen bird, they said, had uttered a warning cry, and they had been unable to join me before, an excuse to which I am now somewhat used.