Life of Charles DarwinBettany, G. T. (George Thomas)
Science
Life of Charles Darwin
Bettany, G. T. (George Thomas)
Darwin, Charles, 1809-1882
The volcanic island of St. Paul in the open Atlantic was touched at on
February 16th, and it afforded the young naturalist a text for
destroying the pretty ideas as to stately palms and birds taking
possession of newly-formed oceanic land; at any rate, here were only two
species of sea birds, no plants, and the fauna was completed by a number
of insects and spiders of no very exalted habits. Fernando Noronha was
passed on February 20th, and at last the South American continent was
reached.
On February 29th, at Bahia, Darwin describes his first day in a
Brazilian forest, in a passage which is of special interest. "The day
has passed delightfully. Delight itself, however, is a weak term to
express the feelings of a naturalist who, for the first time, has
wandered by himself in a Brazilian forest. The elegance of the grasses,
the novelty of the parasitical plants, the beauty of the flowers, the
glossy green of the foliage, but, above all, the general luxuriance of
the vegetation, filled me with admiration. A most paradoxical mixture of
sound and silence pervades the shady parts of the wood. The noise from
the insects is so loud that it may be heard even in a vessel anchored
several hundred yards from the shore; yet within the recesses of the
forest a universal silence appears to reign. To a person fond of natural
history, such a day as this brings with it a deeper pleasure than he can
ever hope to experience again."
Arriving at Rio de Janeiro early in April, Darwin made several
excursions into the interior during the following three months. On these
expeditions it was rarely indeed that decent accommodation could be
procured at the inns. "On first arriving," he says, "it was our custom
to unsaddle the horses and give them their Indian corn; then, with a low
bow, to ask the senhor to do us the favour to give us something to eat.
'Anything you choose, sir,' was his usual answer. For the few first
times, vainly I thanked Providence for having guided us to so good a
man. The conversation proceeding, the case universally became
deplorable. 'Any fish can you do us the favour of giving?' 'Oh, no,
sir!' 'Any soup?' 'No, sir!' 'Any bread?' 'Oh, no, sir!' 'Any dried
meat?' 'Oh, no, sir!' If we were lucky, by waiting a couple of hours, we
obtained fowls, rice, and farinha. It not unfrequently happened that we
were obliged to kill, with stones, the poultry for our own supper. When,
thoroughly exhausted by fatigue and hunger, we timorously hinted that we
should be glad of our meal, the pompous and (though true) most
unsatisfactory answer was, 'It will be ready when it is ready!' If we
had dared to remonstrate any further, we should have been told to
proceed on our journey, as being too impertinent. The hosts are most
ungracious and disagreeable in their manners; their houses and their
persons are often filthily dirty; the want of the accommodation of
forks, knives, and spoons is common; and I am sure no cottage or hovel
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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