Life on the CongoBentley, W. Holman (William Holman)
History
Life on the Congo
Bentley, W. Holman (William Holman)
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Congo River -- Description and travel; Missions -- Africa, Central
Starting from Zanzibar November 17, 1874, he circumnavigated the Lakes
Victoria Nyanza and Tanganika for the first time, carefully charting.
Thence he struck across to Nyangwe. In spite of the obstacles and
difficulties that had hindered others, his immense determination, his
resources, and knowledge of the Swahili language, enabled him to induce
his men to follow him down the river.
He recalled to their minds the long weary marches, the terrible dank
forests of Urega, how easy it would be to sit in canoes, and paddle
down this great river, which must flow into the sea. They agreed, and
met the first serious impediment to navigation at the Equator, where a
series of seven cataracts in forty miles caused them to transport their
canoes overland round these obstacles.
Clear of these Stanley Falls they had an uninterrupted course for 1,060
miles, the river widening out in some places to as much as twenty-five
miles in breadth, studded with low sandy tree-covered islands. As
he neared the end of this grand reach of waterway, hills appeared,
the river narrowed, and the banks grew steeper until they towered a
thousand feet above him. The river widened out once more into a pool
some seventy miles in circumference, which is now named Stanley Pool,
at the western end of which the explorer heard the thunder of the Ntamu
Cataracts. From this point his difficulties were to be of a different
nature. Along the 1,000 miles of clear waterway which he had just
passed, he had been exposed to the constant attacks of wild, fierce
savages, now he had to struggle with a wilder, fiercer river. The next
one hundred miles occupied four months. Dragging his canoes overland,
past the Ntamu Cataracts, he took once more to the water, only to
find another cataract a few miles lower down. This was his constant
experience, while the porterage past these obstacles often involved
the conveyance of his heavy canoes, stores, etc., 700 and 1,000 feet
up the steep banks of the river, four or five miles overland, and down
again into the deep gorge. Stores were running short, food was scarce,
canoes were lost in the rapids, some of his men were drowned, including
Frank Pocock, his only surviving white companion. Privations, sickness,
and murderous natives had thinned his ranks, but he struggled on.
Clearing the Ntombo Mataka Falls, he found a reach of ninety miles of
very bad, but navigable water, and at the end of which were the great
Isangila Falls. There, learning that he was within a few days’ journey
of factories and white men, he left the river, and his weary company
toiled over the steep quartz hills and reached Mboma in August, 1877,
in an almost starving condition. A year of drought and great scarcity
of food had added much to his difficulties. However, the journey
was accomplished, the Congo River had been traced, the highway into
the heart of Africa had been explored. Taking his people down the
last quiet sixty miles of the river, he arranged for their return to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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