Life on the CongoBentley, W. Holman (William Holman)
History
Life on the Congo
Bentley, W. Holman (William Holman)
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Congo River -- Description and travel; Missions -- Africa, Central
If a transverse section were taken about the middle of the cataract
region, there would be first an ascent from the river, almost
perpendicular, of from 300 to 500 feet in about one-third of a mile,
then a much steadier rise of some 500 to 700 feet in two miles, and
then a rise of another 500 to 700 feet in eight miles, with a further
steady rise for five miles, so that the actual valley in the cataract
region might be estimated roughly at from twenty to thirty miles in
breadth. The river itself varies from 300 yards to one-and-a-half or
two miles wide at mid-flood; while the difference between the highest
water of the rainy season and the lowest in the dry season, varies from
forty feet in the worst parts to about three feet on the lower river.
To the geologist the country between the coast and Stanley Pool is
best studied along the river. The first low hills approach near to the
mouth of the river, which is about seven miles wide, and devoid of a
delta; the next step in the plateau occurs at five miles west of Mboma,
fifty miles from the coast, where the tops of the ‘hills’ are from 500
to 700 feet in height. There we find a red clay yielding copal above
granitic rocks. The banks grow steeper and the river narrows, until at
Vivi the first serious obstacle is met, the plateau level being about
1,700 feet, and the river about 600 yards wide. Just above this is
the fierce Yelala Cataract; indeed, nowhere can you properly speak of
falls; a drop of fifty feet, which would be a fine scene on an ordinary
river, is almost disregarded by the Congo. The bed of a cataract must
be of very hard rock, and down this inclined plane, the river, nipped
tightly by the hills, rushes with fearful velocity, leaping in mad
waves, foaming and raging at its rocky obstacles. In some of the milder
cataracts it rushes down a swirling mound of water, which projected
into the quieter low level at the foot of the cataract, races on as
a heap of waters for nearly half a mile, before it consents to swirl
about at the lower level. Fierce up currents run along the shore at
such points, which would draw boats or canoes into the swirling
current, while along the edges of these counter-currents are great
whirlpools, giving way to each other, disappearing, and breaking up
into ‘caldrons,’ the whole surface heaving and seething. In a creek
three miles below the Ntombo Cataract we have watched this heaving. The
water would flow outwards from the creek, then meeting the impulse of a
fresh heave, would flow back until it would remain stationary for some
twenty seconds, often two feet higher than what it was a minute ago.
This flows backwards and forwards in the creek, recurring every two
minutes or minute and a half.
[Illustration: A LOAD.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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