LION AND DRAGON IN NORTHERN CHINA [Illustration: VIEW FROM THE HUAN-TS'UI-LOU ON THE CITY WALL OF WEIHAIWEI. (Showing the interior of the walled city, the island of Liukung and the Harbour, and the European settlement of Port Edward). ] LION AND DRAGON IN NORTHERN CHINA BY R. F. JOHNSTON, M.A. (OXON.), F.R.G.S. DISTRICT OFFICER AND MAGISTRATE, WEIHAIWEI FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE GOVERNOR OF HONGKONG, ETC. AUTHOR OF "FROM PEKING TO MANDALAY" WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS NEW YORK E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY 1910 PRINTED BY HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY, LD., LONDON AND AYLESBURY, ENGLAND. TO SIR JAMES HALDANE STEWART LOCKHART K.C.M.G., COMMISSIONER OF WEIHAIWEI IN MEMORY OF TWO MOONLIT NIGHTS AT LUTAO-K'OU FIVE FROSTY MORNINGS AT PEI-K'OU TEMPLE AND A HUNDRED BREEZY GALLOPS OVER THE HILLS AND SANDS OF WEIHAIWEI PREFACE The meeting-place of the British Lion and the Chinese Dragon in northern China consists of the port and Territory of Weihaiwei. It is therefore with this district, and the history, folk-lore, religious practices and social customs of its people, that the following pages are largely occupied. But Weihaiwei is in many respects a true miniature of China, and a careful study of native life and character, as they are exhibited in this small district, may perhaps give us a clearer and truer insight into the life and character of the Chinese race than we should gain from any superficial survey of China as a whole. Its present status under the British Crown supplies European observers with a unique opportunity for the close study of sociological and other conditions in rural China. If several chapters of this book seem to be but slightly concerned with the special subject of Weihaiwei, it is because the chief interest of the place to the student lies in the fact that it is an epitomised China, and because if we wish fully to understand even this small fragment of the Empire we must make many long excursions through the wider fields of Chinese history, sociology and religion. The photographs (with certain exceptions noted in each case) have been taken by the author during his residence at Weihaiwei. From Sir James H. Stewart Lockhart, K.C.M.G., Commissioner of Weihaiwei, he has received much kind encouragement which he is glad to take this opportunity of acknowledging; and he is indebted to Captain A. Hilton-Johnson for certain information regarding the personnel of the late Chinese Regiment. His thanks are more especially due to his old friend Mr. D. P. Heatley, Lecturer in History at the University of Edinburgh, for his generous assistance in superintending the publication of the book. R. F. JOHNSTON. WÊN-CH'ÜAN-T'ANG, WEIHAIWEI, _May 1, 1910._ CONTENTS