Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of ScotlandHolmes, Daniel Turner
History
Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of Scotland
Holmes, Daniel Turner
Scottish literature -- History and criticism
Arnisdale, on the mainland facing Skye, is a very destitute district,
and has suffered much from the failure of the once-flourishing
herring-fishery of Loch Hourn. One can see by the attire of the children
that the poverty must be exceptional, even for the Highlands. The
teacher says that in winter she has to think as much how to feed the
children as to teach them. By the charity of some benevolent visitors,
she was, last winter, able to give the pupils a mid-day meal of cocoa
and biscuits. It is a sad contrast to the extraordinary beauty of this
picturesque spot that such dire misery should overtake a proportion of
the natives during the winter season.
Arnisdale is not very accessible, even in the height of the summer
traffic, and when one gets there, it is a problem how to get away. I
asked the captain of the _Glencoe_ to set me down near what is called
the _dry island_, in Loch Hourn, and thence I was rowed ashore by two
very wild-looking, unkempt boatmen. The school-house, where I lodged, is
right on the beach, and just at the base of the gigantic Ben Screel.
Twelve miles along the coast, by a road of the most awe-inspiring kind,
one comes to the interesting nook of Glenelg, with its Pictish towers
and ruined barracks.
It was a mild and hazy morning when I traversed the road between
Arnisdale and Glenelg. On coming to the summit, a great breeze arose and
drove away the heavy white mists from the Sound of Sleat, and showed the
white, sentinel-like lighthouse of Isle Ornsay and great fertile
stretches of the near portion of Skye. Reluctantly the clouds finally
curled and rolled away before the wind and the glitter of the sun, until
the Cuchullins were visible beyond the water and the green peninsula of
Sleat.
In a cosy recess near the highest part of the road, beside a bubbling
spring, a _gipsy family_ had pitched its tent. I admired the taste shown
in the selection of a place commanding such a view. The family was still
under canvas, but hanging on the branch of a tree was a worn and
mud-stained skirt. Do not ladies in hotels, in similar fashion, hang out
their dusty and travel-soiled attire at the doors of their chambers? And
perhaps the dark-skinned owner had hung up her dank and dripping weeds
in the hope that some silvan faun or Robin Goodfellow would, without a
tip, perform the dusting process, in this case so palpably necessary. We
do wrong in supposing that imagination is not the portion of these
woodland rovers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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