Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of ScotlandHolmes, Daniel Turner
History
Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of Scotland
Holmes, Daniel Turner
Scottish literature -- History and criticism
I do not altogether envy the candidate for parliamentary honours who has
to _nurse_ a remote insular constituency like Orkney and Shetland. I met
Mr. Cathcart Wason in Lerwick, and learned that he had been going the
round of the islands and had even paid a visit to the isolated and
mountainous rock of Foulah. Now this was a very daring feat indeed, for
I have heard of a young man who went once to visit his friends there and
was kept a prisoner for five months owing to the squalls. The papers
complimented Mr. Wason on his intrepidity: he went over from Walls in a
smack, and did not make his address too lengthy, for fear the weather
might change and Westminster be deprived of his eloquence for a space.
Mr. Wason is a very tall gentleman, but in Foulah he met his peers in
point of stature. The islanders are a fine set of men, hardy and godly.
They are adroit fowlers and nimble cragsmen. It gives one a queer
sensation to hear that the face of their sheer precipices used to be
(like level land elsewhere) apportioned equitably among the various
families. If A did not wish to catch birds on his aerial lot, he could
let it to B and claim a certain percentage of the spoil. The population
of the island is about 250: owing probably to intermarriage, there are
many childless homes.
I do not know if Mr. Wason has ever been to the Fair Isle, but I
understand an Ex-Moderator of the Church of Scotland visited the little
community there in 1903. There are two ways of getting to this islet:
(1) by means of a sailing boat which leaves Grutness for Fair Isle once
a fortnight with the mails; if the weather is bad, this mode of
communication is suspended, as in winter no sane man would venture
through the roost in such a boat; (2) by taking a passage on board the
S.S. _Pole Star_, which calls on the first of every month with stores
for the lighthouse. She is a strong, swift boat, and makes the journey
from Stromness, seventy miles away. I may remark that a lecturer wishing
to speak in the Fair Isle need not trouble himself about placards or
handbills: the whole population will be on the shore to welcome him when
he lands, and he could conveniently intimate his subject then, if he has
any breath left in his body. The Fair Isle possesses a church organ and
a non-surpliced choir. The islanders have a great appetite for sermons,
as the following story, told by Mr. Russell, amply proves. "The minister
of Dunrossness went one summer to dispense the communion in the Fair
Isle, and a storm came on which detained him there for about eight days.
The weather also prevented the boats from going to the fishing. As the
people had no pressing work to do at the time, and as it was only on
rare occasions that they enjoyed the presence of the parish minister,
they were anxious to avail themselves of his services while he was among
them. _Accordingly, at their desire, he preached every day during his
stay. In all, he preached thirteen times._ He had taken the precaution
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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