Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of ScotlandHolmes, Daniel Turner
History
Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of Scotland
Holmes, Daniel Turner
Scottish literature -- History and criticism
of bringing a good stock of sermons with him. Before this was exhausted,
the weather providentially improved, so that he was able to get
home."[26]
The cherished legends of one's youth get sorely demolished in the course
of travel and investigation. The school-books used to say that the
Shetlanders were taught to knit by Spanish women saved from the wreck of
the Armada. The islanders stoutly deny any indebtedness, and declare
that there never was the slightest friendship between their ancestors
and the crews of King Philip's galleons.
[26] The prayers of as many righteous men as possible are
requested for the inspectors of schools who have to examine and
report on the state of education in the Orkneys and Shetlands. I
had the pleasure of conversing with one of these hard-worked
officials in November, 1906. He spoke very warmly of the improved
educational benefit of the libraries that have been sent from
Paisley to the isles and skerries. This gentleman inspects the
Fair Isle school once every two years. On the occasion of his
last visit, he was rowed from Lerwick in a "sixern," and had a
most tempestuous time going through the _roost_. Two of his
oarsmen sickened, and were helpless. On getting ashore at last,
he forgot all his sorrows and soaking, when he heard heartsome
strains of welcome being played on the _insular pianola_.
THE FISHING SEASON.
To Lerwick, during the fishing season, thousands of women come from the
island of Lewis to gut the myriad herring that are daily brought into
the bay. There is an extemporised town for the strangers on the
outskirts, over which float many odours, weird, pungent, and unsavoury.
All the processes of gutting, curing, and kippering go on in grand
style. The women, clad in a kind of oilskin, handle their dangerous
implements in most dexterous fashion. It is a horrid business, but well
paid. Prolific Nature is never tired supplying these women with work,
for as many as 68,000 eggs have been found in the roe of one female
herring. My friend, Mr. M'Kenzie of Ullapool, who is in the service of
the Fishery Board, took me to see the official examination of several
hundred barrels of fish, preparatory to the branding thereon of the
official stamp. The owners pay for this examination, but the additional
value given to each barrel by the Government mark far surpasses the fee
exacted by the Board. The branding-officer selects at random a barrel
here and there, extracts some dozen fish from each, and satisfies
himself as to the size and quality. If the herring are puny or of
inferior sort, the officer refuses to brand, and the examination fee is
refunded. Mr. M'Kenzie remarked that this was the only case in which he
had ever seen men reluctant to receive money. I followed that gentleman
as he walked over the long lines of slippery herring barrels, lying in
horizontal juxtaposition, and I cannot recommend the exercise to those
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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